Simplifying a Cream Formula for DIY

Asked by: aon_spider On: April 30, 2014 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am using a cream with the following formula: isopropyl palmitate,sorbitol,behenyl alcohol glyceral stearate PEG-100stearate,butylene,glycol,cyclopentasiloxane,silica,sorbitan, alpha arbutin,peel extract,beta-sitosterol,asparagus,ergothioneine. If I want to make this cream myself, which ingredients can be removed? Also, based on the list, are the active ingredients only alpha arbutin and ergothioneine?

Answer

Understanding Your Cream Formula and Making a Simplified Version

Based on the ingredient list you provided, let's break down the components and discuss making a simplified version at home.

You are correct that Alpha Arbutin and Ergothioneine are key active ingredients, typically included for skin brightening and antioxidant benefits, respectively. Beta-Sitosterol is also often considered a beneficial ingredient, known for its soothing properties. The "peel extract" and "asparagus" ingredients are less specific, but could also contribute active properties depending on the exact type of extract used.

Regarding which ingredients you can remove if making this yourself:

It's challenging to remove many ingredients from a cream formula without significantly changing its properties.

  • Essential Base Ingredients: Ingredients like isopropyl palmitate, sorbitol, behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, and sorbitan form the core structure of the cream. They act as emollients (providing softness), humectants (attracting moisture), and emulsifiers (keeping oil and water mixed). Removing these would likely require a completely different formulation approach and might not result in a stable cream.
  • Texture Enhancers: Cyclopentasiloxane and silica are primarily used to improve the feel of the cream on the skin, making it smoother or less greasy. These are the most likely candidates you could consider removing if you want to simplify, but be aware that the final texture and how the cream feels on your skin will be different.
  • Active Ingredients: If you want your homemade version to have similar benefits to the original cream, you should keep the active ingredients like Alpha Arbutin, Ergothioneine, and Beta-Sitosterol. Removing these would mean your cream would not provide the same intended effects.

Important Consideration for Homemade Formulations:

The ingredient list you provided does not include a preservative. Commercial cream formulations that contain water must include a preservative system to prevent microbial growth (bacteria, mold, yeast), which can be harmful and spoil the product quickly. If you were to make a cream at home containing water, adding an appropriate preservative is absolutely essential for safety and shelf life, even if the original list didn't explicitly show it (sometimes they are listed under a trade name or blend).

In summary, while you might be able to omit texture enhancers like silicones and silica, the base ingredients and active ingredients are generally necessary to achieve a cream with similar properties and benefits. Always include a preservative in any homemade water-based cosmetic product.