Skin Brightening Cream Formula Review and Mixing Instructions

Asked by: sisaynoraseng On: May 11, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Hello,

Can this formula be used? If yes, please provide instructions on how to mix this formula.

Desired product properties:

  • Easy to spread
  • Light texture
  • Fast absorption
  • Helps skin retain moisture well and for a long time
  • Non-irritating
  • Focuses on skin brightening

Skin type:

  • Sun-damaged skin
  • Dry, but not peeling, flaky, or cracked

Proposed Formula:

  1. DI Water: Remaining percentage to reach 100%
  2. Safe-B3: 5%
  3. GlucoBright: 4%
  4. Alpha Arbutin: 1%
  5. Lactic Acid (AHA) 90% Deodorized: 5%
  6. Active Resveratrol: 5%
  7. Satin Cream Maker: 1%
  8. Shea Butter (Ultra Soft): 5%
  9. Cyclomethicone / Cyclopentasiloxane (Low-Odor): 1%
  10. Mild Preserved Eco™: 1%

Answer

Subject: Re: Inquiry before ordering

Hello,

Thank you for sharing your formula and skin concerns.

Regarding your proposed formula:
This formula contains several potent ingredients aimed at brightening and moisturizing the skin, such as Niacinamide, N-Acetyl Glucosamine, Alpha Arbutin, Lactic Acid, and Resveratrol. These ingredients can effectively help with skin brightening, reducing dark spots, and improving skin hydration and texture, aligning with your goals for brighter and moisturized skin.

However, please be aware that this formula uses relatively high concentrations of multiple active ingredients, particularly 5% Lactic Acid and 5% Resveratrol, in combination with other actives. While potent, this combination significantly increases the potential for skin irritation, redness, or sensitivity, especially for skin that is dry or sun-damaged, as you described. This might contradict your goal of a non-irritating product. It is highly recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to your face.

Additionally, using only 1% Satin Cream Maker as the sole emulsifier for a formula containing 5% Shea Butter might result in a very thin texture or potential stability issues (separation) over time. While this could contribute to a light feel, ensuring a stable emulsion might require adjusting the emulsifier level or adding a co-emulsifier/thickener.

Mixing Instructions:

Here is a general guideline for mixing this type of formula. Please note that specific instructions might vary slightly depending on the exact form and solubility of each ingredient.

  1. Water Phase: Combine DI Water, Safe-B3 (Niacinamide), GlucoBright (N-Acetyl Glucosamine), Alpha Arbutin, and Lactic Acid in a beaker. Stir until all powders are fully dissolved.
  2. Oil Phase: In a separate beaker, combine Shea Butter (Ultra Soft) and Cyclomethicone. Gently heat if necessary to fully melt the Shea Butter.
  3. Emulsification: Add Satin Cream Maker to the water phase (or oil phase, depending on specific product instructions - check the product page). Heat both the water and oil phases to the recommended emulsification temperature (often around 70-75°C, but check Satin Cream Maker instructions).
  4. Combine Phases: Pour the oil phase into the water phase (or vice versa) while stirring continuously with a high-shear mixer (like a homogenizer or high-speed stirrer) for several minutes to create a stable emulsion.
  5. Cool Down: Continue stirring the emulsion gently as it cools down to below 40°C.
  6. Add Heat-Sensitive Actives & Preservative: Once cooled, add Active Resveratrol (ensure it is properly dissolved or dispersed - 5% might require specific solvents not listed) and Mild Preserved Eco™ (preservative). Stir well to ensure even distribution.
  7. Adjust pH: Check the pH of the final product using a pH meter. Lactic Acid is acidic, and the combination of ingredients will result in a certain pH. For optimal skin compatibility and ingredient stability, the pH might need to be adjusted, typically to a range between 4.5 and 6.0, using a suitable pH adjuster (like Sodium Hydroxide solution).
  8. Final Check: Ensure the mixture is uniform and stable. Package into suitable containers.

Important Considerations:

  • The high concentration of actives might be too strong for initial use, especially on sun-damaged skin. You might consider starting with lower percentages (e.g., 2-3% Niacinamide, 2% GlucoBright, 0.5-1% Alpha Arbutin, 1-2% Lactic Acid, 1-2% Resveratrol) and gradually increasing if your skin tolerates it.
  • Ensure all ingredients are compatible and soluble at the chosen concentrations and final pH.
  • Always perform a small patch test on your skin before applying the product widely.

This formula is very active-rich for brightening, but please proceed with caution regarding potential irritation.

We hope this information is helpful!

Best regards,
[Your Name/Staff Name]