Skin darkening issue with tester formulation for wrinkles and hydration

Question

I am 28 years old and have skin concerns including loss of firmness, nasolabial folds, under-eye wrinkles, oily but dehydrated skin, minor freckles, acne scars, and lack of brightness.

I am currently using a tester formulation with the following ingredients:

Pure Aloe Vera Gel
N-Acetyl-D-glucosamine 4%
Alpha Arbutin 2%
Bisabolol 1%
Zinc PCA 1%
Co-Enzyme Q10 1%
Vitamin B3 2%
Argireline 5%
Matrixyl 3000 5%
AminoSilk 3%

I use this formulation in the morning before applying Biore sunscreen, and at night, I use it along with Stabilized Vitamin C (Natural-C Glycol) Serum.

After using it, my skin feels smoother, pores are reduced, and wrinkles have diminished significantly. However, my skin has become darker and less bright, although I haven't experienced any stinging or irritation. I initially thought it might be due to using it with the Vitamin C serum, so I stopped the Vitamin C, but my skin still appears darker when using only the tester.

Could this be due to incompatible ingredients in the tester formulation? Can I continue using the rest of the bottle, as it is very effective for reducing wrinkles and I don't want to waste it? How should I address this issue?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Based on your description, it seems you have combination skin with concerns about firmness, wrinkles, dehydration, minor pigmentation, and lack of brightness. It's great that you've seen positive results with the tester formulation regarding skin texture, pores, and wrinkles!

Regarding the darkening issue, it is indeed unusual since the formulation contains ingredients like N-Acetyl-D-glucosamine, Alpha Arbutin, and Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide), which are typically used for skin brightening and reducing hyperpigmentation. The fact that the darkening persists even after stopping the Stabilized Vitamin C serum suggests the effect is likely related to the tester formulation itself, although the exact reason for this unexpected reaction is difficult to pinpoint without knowing the full base and how the ingredients interact in this specific mix.

Since you tolerate the formulation well without irritation and value its anti-wrinkle benefits, you can certainly continue using it to finish the bottle. To help counteract the darkening effect while you do so, here are a few suggestions:

Maximize Sun Protection: Sun exposure is a primary driver of skin darkening. Ensure you are applying a sufficient amount of broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher every morning and reapplying throughout the day, especially if you are outdoors. This is crucial when using any active ingredients, even those intended for brightening.
Consider Using the Tester Once Daily: If you are currently using the tester morning and night, try using it only once a day, perhaps at night. This might reduce the cumulative effect causing the darkening. In the morning, you can use a simpler hydrating product or a dedicated brightening serum (see the next point) before applying sunscreen.
Incorporate a Separate Brightening Product: Consider adding a separate product specifically focused on brightening to your routine. This could be a serum or cream containing ingredients like Vitamin C (a stable form), Kojic Acid, Azelaic Acid, or other proven brighteners. Use this product at a different time of day than the tester formulation (e.g., brightening serum in the morning, tester at night) to avoid potential interactions or overwhelming your skin.

It's puzzling that a formula with known brighteners is causing darkening, but skin reactions can sometimes be unpredictable. By focusing on rigorous sun protection and potentially incorporating another brightening step, you can hopefully mitigate the darkening while still benefiting from the anti-wrinkle effects of your tester formulation.