Regarding Your AHA/BHA Formulation and Skin Irritation

Thank you for sharing your formulation and concerns. It sounds like you're experiencing skin irritation and breakouts after switching to your new routine.

Based on the ingredients and concentrations you've used, the irritation is very likely due to the high concentration and combination of exfoliating acids in your new formula.

• High Concentration and Combination of Acids: Your formula contains Pumpkin Renew (an AHA), Mandelic Acid (an AHA), and Salicylic Acid (a BHA) at a combined concentration of 11%. Using multiple strong exfoliants together at such high levels can easily overwhelm the skin, leading to irritation, redness, and breakouts. As discussed previously, 5% Salicylic Acid is a high concentration for facial use, especially the standard powder form. Even the Salicylic Acid EZ™ form at 5% is equivalent to 1% active BHA. Combining this with other AHAs makes the formula quite potent.
• pH Level: The effectiveness and safety of AHA and BHA products depend heavily on pH, ideally between 3.0-4.0. Formulating with multiple acids at high concentrations makes it difficult to control the final pH without measurement. A pH that is too low can cause severe irritation.
• Multiple Active Ingredients: You also mentioned using an Aloe Vera Gel base with other actives like Alpha Arbutin, Zinc PCA, Acne bee, Vitamin B3, Repair Activator, and Matrixyl. While these ingredients have benefits, using many active ingredients simultaneously, especially alongside a strong exfoliant, can increase the risk of irritation.

Recommendations:

1. Immediately stop using the new AHA/BHA formula. Given the irritation and breakouts, it's crucial to discontinue this specific formula.
2. Return to your previous routine that included Vitamin C, AHA/BHA 2%, and a moisturizer, as this worked well for your skin.
3. Simplify your routine. Consider temporarily reducing the number of products and active ingredients you use to allow your skin to recover.
4. If you wish to reintroduce exfoliating ingredients:
   • Start slowly with one product at a time and at lower concentrations.
   • For Salicylic Acid, ensure you are using the correct type and concentration according to the product information. The standard powder form should not exceed 2%. If using Salicylic Acid EZ™, remember that 5% is equivalent to 1% active BHA. A total active BHA concentration of 1-2% is usually sufficient.
   • Consider alternating between AHA products (like Mandelic Acid or Pumpkin Renew) and BHA products (like Salicylic Acid) on different nights, or use products with a lower total concentration of exfoliants.
   • Begin using new exfoliating products only a few times a week and gradually increase frequency if your skin tolerates it.
5. Avoid mixing custom formulas with commercial products like SK-II essence, as this can affect stability and safety. It's better to adjust your own formula.
6. Application: Exfoliating acids are generally best used at night. Always follow with a good moisturizer.

Listening to your skin is key. Irritation and breakouts are clear signs that your current routine is too aggressive. Allow your skin time to heal before slowly and cautiously reintroducing active ingredients at lower concentrations.