Skin Nourishing Gel and Leave-in Hair Conditioner Formulas

Subject: Skin Nourishing Gel and Leave-in Conditioner Formulas

Regarding your questions about the two formulas:

1. Skin Nourishing Gel Formula:
You proposed a gel formula for oily, acne-prone, sensitive skin with large pores, spots, and scars, containing Vitamin B3, N-acetyl glucosamide, Vitamin B5, Allantoin, Betaine, Licorice Extract, Centella Asiatica, Witch hazel, and Vegum as a gelling agent.

• The staff confirmed that the ingredients in your proposed formula are generally suitable for your skin concerns, but emphasized the importance of addressing active acne first.
• Regarding Allantoin and Betaine: The staff clarified that Allantoin should not exceed 0.5% of the total water phase. In your formula, the water phase includes both water (25.5%) and Witch Hazel (50%), totaling 75.5%. Therefore, Allantoin should not exceed 0.5% of 75.5%, which is approximately 0.37%. Your proposed 0.5% is slightly above this recommended limit based on the total water phase.
• Your proposed mixing order (dissolve Betaine, then Allantoin, then other ingredients, then Vegum) was confirmed as correct by the staff.

2. Leave-in Hair Conditioner Serum Formula:
You initially proposed a serum formula with water-soluble proteins, Vitamin B5, water, avocado oil, and Laureth-23.

• The staff advised that your initial formula might not function effectively as a typical leave-in conditioner. They explained that commercial leave-ins often rely heavily on ingredients like silicones and cationic polymers to coat the hair for feel and manageability, rather than purely nourishing ingredients.
• For actual hair nourishment, Argan Oil was recommended. A successful approach, like Moroccan Oil, combines nourishing oils (like Argan Oil) with silicones to provide both nourishment and the desired smooth feel without excessive oiliness.
• Water-soluble ingredients like Vitamin B5, hydrolysed proteins, and Sea Kelp Bioferment are excellent for hair nourishment but are often best used in rinse-off conditioners or hair masks where they have time to penetrate before being washed out.
• Following the discussion, a revised approach for a leave-in formula emerged, incorporating:
  • Silicone Blend (Heavy & Silky) for feel and lasting smoothness.
  • Nourishing oils (like Argan Oil, potentially others like Jojoba, Avocado).
  • Water, to allow for the inclusion of water-soluble nourishing ingredients.
  • Water-soluble nourishing ingredients like Vitamin B5 and Keratin.
  • An emulsifier capable of combining oil, water, and silicone (like SiliSolve Plus).
  • A preservative.
• The general mixing method for such a formula involves combining the oil phase, adding the emulsifier, adding oil-soluble actives (if any), mixing, then adding the water phase with water-soluble actives and preservative, and mixing until uniform.

In summary, for the skin gel, your formula is mostly fine, just be mindful of the Allantoin concentration relative to the total water phase. For the leave-in conditioner, a formula combining silicones, oils, water, and water-soluble actives with an appropriate emulsifier is suggested for a balance of feel and nourishment.