Skin Penetration and Formulation Bases

Asked by: asvami.ladyluck On: April 09, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am currently using Light Cream Maker in my formulation. I'm trying to understand how different bases affect skin penetration.

  1. If I use a gum-based texture, like with xanthan gum, I understand I need other ingredients to help with penetration. Is it correct that if I use a cream base, I can use it alone (without extra penetration enhancers)?
  2. For my next formulation, which base would help ingredients penetrate the skin the most effectively?
  3. Is the only benefit of xanthan gum just to increase viscosity (thickening)?

Could you please provide some guidance?

Answer

Based on the discussion:

  • Penetration: You are correct that some bases, like those made primarily with xanthan gum, may not significantly help ingredients penetrate the skin. Other bases, such as cream bases or gelling agents like Pro Polymer, are suggested as they can help carry ingredients into the skin more effectively. Light Cream Maker was also mentioned as an alternative thickener that might help.
  • Best base for penetration: According to the discussion, bases that can penetrate the skin's oil layer, such as Pro Polymer or cream bases, are considered better for ingredient delivery compared to xanthan gum alone.
  • Benefit of xanthan gum: The main benefit of xanthan gum mentioned is its ability to increase viscosity and create a gel-like texture ("เพิ่มความหนึด"). If using xanthan gum, adding a penetration enhancer like Ethoxydiglycol (at least 10%) was suggested to improve ingredient delivery.