Skin Penetration of Oil vs. Water Soluble Ingredients and Oil Gel Formulation

ถามโดย: por.pharm เมื่อ: August 22, 2018 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I would like to know:

  1. Do active ingredients that dissolve in oil penetrate the skin better than active ingredients that dissolve in water?
  2. If a formula contains almost entirely oil-soluble active ingredients, can the texture be made into a gel?

คำตอบ

Skin Penetration of Oil vs. Water Soluble Ingredients

Regarding whether oil-soluble active ingredients penetrate the skin better than water-soluble ones, there is no definitive rule. While water-based ingredients might generally be perceived as harder to absorb than oil-based ones, actual penetration depends on many factors. These include the ingredient's hydrophobicity/hydrophilicity and lipophobicity/lipophilicity, which determine how well they interact with the different layers of the skin. Even water-soluble extracts can interact with oils. Therefore, a detailed analysis of these properties is necessary to determine the actual penetration ability.

Creating a Gel Texture with Oil-Soluble Ingredients

Yes, it is possible to create a gel texture for a formulation that consists almost entirely of oil-soluble active ingredients. You would need to use specific oil gelling agents.

Based on your inquiry and the staff's recommendation, here are some suitable oil gelling agents:

  • Sugar Gel: Creates a soft, clear oil gel texture. Note that this requires about 10% water in the formula and cannot be used with Silicone. It is made from natural sugar and is edible, making it suitable for lip products.
  • Oil Thick™ Soft: Creates a soft, translucent oil gel texture. Suitable for cream formulations and can be used with Silicone.
  • Oil Thick™ Hard: Creates a semi-solid, translucent oil gel texture. Suitable for balm and pressed powder formulations and can be used with Silicone.
  • Oil Thick™ Clear S: Creates a clear, thixotropic oil gel texture in non-polar and some polar oils/LipidSoft™. It provides a texture that becomes more liquid when force is applied (like rubbing on skin) and thickens when at rest. It cannot be used with Silicone.

When choosing an oil gelling agent, consider the desired texture (soft, hard, clear, translucent, thixotropic) and compatibility with other ingredients in your formula, such as silicone or water content.

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Sugar Gel (creates oil gel texture / Oil Gellant)
Sugar Gel (creates oil gel texture / Oil Gellant)
เครื่องสำอาง
Oil Thick™ Clear S (Thixotropic)
Oil Thick™ Clear S (Thixotropic)
เครื่องสำอาง