Understanding Skin Reaction to Your Formulation

It appears you've created a cream containing Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) 5%, Alpha Arbutin 2%, Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) 2%, and Collagen 3%. Experiencing dryness and acne with this formulation can be due to several factors, primarily related to the combination and concentration of these potent active ingredients.

Potential Causes of Dryness and Acne:

• Ingredient Interaction and Concentration: While Niacinamide at 5% is generally well-tolerated and can even help with oiliness and barrier function, combining it with Alpha Arbutin and especially L-Ascorbic Acid can increase the risk of irritation. L-Ascorbic Acid, while highly effective, is known for its potential to cause dryness and irritation, particularly if the formulation's pH is not optimized or if your skin is sensitive.
• pH Level: L-Ascorbic Acid is most stable and effective at a low pH (typically 2.0-4.0). However, Niacinamide and Alpha Arbutin function optimally at slightly higher pH levels (Niacinamide: 4.0-7.0, Alpha Arbutin: 3.5-6.5). Formulating a product that keeps all these ingredients stable and effective while being gentle on the skin is challenging. A pH that is too low to stabilize Vitamin C can be highly irritating, disrupting the skin barrier and leading to dryness and breakouts.
• Skin Barrier Disruption: The combination of multiple active ingredients, especially at higher concentrations or incorrect pH, can compromise the skin's natural barrier. A damaged skin barrier loses moisture easily (leading to dryness) and becomes more susceptible to irritation and bacterial growth, which can cause acne.
• Ingredient Quality: As mentioned by the staff, the source and quality of the ingredients you used could also play a role in your skin's reaction.

Recommendations:

1. Reduce Frequency or Stop Use: Try using the cream less often, or temporarily stop using it altogether to see if your skin recovers.
2. Focus on Hydration: Use a gentle, effective moisturizer to help repair your skin barrier and alleviate dryness.
3. Simplify Your Routine: During this time, use only basic, gentle skincare products.
4. Consult a Professional: If your symptoms persist or worsen, it is advisable to consult a dermatologist who can assess your skin and the formulation more thoroughly.

Creating stable and effective formulations with multiple active ingredients requires careful consideration of ingredient compatibility, concentration, and pH. The dryness and acne you are experiencing are likely signs of irritation from the formulation.