Skin Reaction from Homemade Serum Formulation

Asked by: n.sitang On: September 03, 2018 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have made a homemade serum using the following ingredients and percentages in a 50g batch:

  • DMAE: 2%
  • Wrinkle-Fill: 1%
  • Japanese Cedar: 1%
  • Vitamin B6: 2%
  • BaicaVital: 2%
  • Vitamin B12: 0.4%
  • Seamollient: 20%
  • MOIST72: 2%
  • Phospholipid: 0.6%
  • 1,2 Hexanediol: 1%
  • Pro Polymer: 0.5%
  • AnyGel: 0.5%
  • Mild Preserved Eco™: 2%
  • Water: 63%

After using the serum, I experienced symptoms including peeling, redness, small bumps, dryness, and discomfort/pain on my skin. I have used some of the ingredients in other formulations before without any issues. Could you please help determine the cause of this reaction (irritation vs. allergy) and advise on how to manage the symptoms and identify the specific ingredient causing the problem?

Answer

Understanding Your Skin Reaction

It sounds like you're experiencing an adverse reaction to your new serum. The symptoms you described, such as peeling, redness, small bumps, dryness, and discomfort, are consistent with either irritation or an allergic reaction.

Based on the ingredients and their concentrations in your 50g serum, the percentages are as follows:

  • DMAE: 2%
  • Wrinkle-Fill: 1%
  • Japanese Cedar: 1%
  • Vitamin B6: 2%
  • BaicaVital: 2%
  • Vitamin B12: 0.4%
  • Seamollient: 20%
  • MOIST72: 2%
  • Phospholipid: 0.6%
  • 1,2 Hexanediol: 1%
  • Pro Polymer: 0.5%
  • AnyGel: 0.5%
  • Mild Preserved Eco™: 2%
  • Water: 63%

Looking at the typical recommended usage rates for these ingredients, none of them appear to be used at a concentration that is generally considered excessively high or likely to cause irritation in most individuals. For example, DMAE can be irritating at concentrations above 5%, but you are using it at 2%, which you mentioned you have used before without issues.

Irritation vs. Allergy

It's important to understand the difference between irritation and an allergic reaction:

  • Irritation: This is a direct response to a substance that damages the skin. It can happen to anyone if the concentration is too high or the substance is inherently irritating. DMAE is one ingredient that can cause irritation, but usually at higher levels than you used.
  • Allergy: This is an immune system response that is specific to an individual. An allergic reaction can occur even at very low concentrations if you are sensitive to a particular ingredient. Since you introduced several new ingredients in this serum, an allergic reaction to one or more of these new components is a strong possibility.

Given that you have used some of these ingredients previously without issue and developed symptoms after using this new formulation, an allergy to one of the ingredients you haven't used before is the most probable cause.

Identifying the Cause and Managing Symptoms

As the staff suggested, the most reliable way to determine which ingredient is causing the reaction is to perform a patch test with each new ingredient individually. This involves applying a small, diluted amount of each ingredient to a small area of skin (like behind the ear or on the forearm) and observing for a reaction over 24-48 hours.

You have done the right thing by immediately stopping the use of the serum and taking antihistamines. This will help to calm the allergic response. The staff's recommendation of using Elomet Cream for a short period can also help reduce the current inflammation and symptoms.

Continue to avoid using the serum and any other products that might contain the same new ingredients until you can identify the specific allergen through patch testing. Focus on gentle, soothing skincare and keep your skin hydrated.