Skin Reactions from Serum and Cleanser Formulations

Asked by: maytharat16 On: December 10, 2014 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have two formulation questions:

  1. Serum Formulation: I added Apple Stem Cell Extract and Copper Peptide to my existing serum base. The base already contains Activated Resorcinol, Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide), N-Acetyl Glucosamine, Hyaluronic Acid, Tranexamic Acid, Bisabolol, and a preservative. After adding these two ingredients, I experienced acne, rash, and inflamed acne. Could the Apple Stem Cell Extract or Copper Peptide be causing this reaction?
  2. Facial Cleanser Formulation: I created a facial cleanser with the following formula:
    • Lauryl Glucoside
    • Propylene Glycol 30%
    • Glycerin 30%
    • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) 4%
    • Lactic Acid 2%

      After using this cleanser, I experienced increased acne and redness. Is this formulation suitable for sensitive skin, and could the high concentrations of Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Vitamin B3, or Lactic Acid be causing the issue?
  3. Additionally, do you have the formula for the facial cleanser from ษิตาวรรณคลินิก?

Answer

Serum Formulation Feedback

Regarding your serum formula and the skin reaction (acne, rash, inflamed acne) after adding Apple Stem Cell Extract and Copper Peptide:

Based on your experience and the feedback from other users, Copper Peptide is the most likely cause of the irritation you experienced. While it is a beneficial ingredient for skin repair and anti-aging, some individuals can be sensitive to it, leading to redness, irritation, or breakouts, even at recommended usage rates. Apple Stem Cell Extract is generally considered less likely to cause irritation.

The ingredients in your original serum formula (Activated Resorcinol, Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide), N-Acetyl Glucosamine, Hyaluronic Acid, Tranexamic Acid, Bisabolol, preservative) are generally compatible and are commonly used together in skincare formulations. The issue appears to be individual sensitivity to the added Copper Peptide rather than a complex interaction between all ingredients.

If you wish to use Apple Stem Cell Extract and Copper Peptide for skin nourishment, especially given your sensitivity:

  • Consider using them separately from your main serum to isolate which ingredient might be causing the reaction.
  • Try using a lower concentration of Copper Peptide (e.g., starting at 0.5% or 1% instead of 2%).
  • Some users find Copper Peptide is better tolerated when used only at night.

Cleanser Formulation Feedback

Regarding your facial cleanser formula and the skin reaction (acne, increased redness) after adding Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) and Lactic Acid:

Your base formula with Lauryl Glucoside, Propylene Glycol, and Glycerin is a gentle cleansing base. However, adding 4% Vitamin B3 and 2% Lactic Acid might be contributing to the irritation, especially if you have sensitive skin.

  • While Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) is often well-tolerated and can help with redness and oiliness, a concentration of 4% in a wash-off product might still be too high for very sensitive skin types.
  • Lactic Acid is an Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) that provides exfoliation. Even at 2%, it can increase skin sensitivity and potentially cause redness or irritation, particularly if the product's pH is low. High concentrations of humectants like Propylene Glycol and Glycerin (30% each) can sometimes feel heavy or leave a residue, which might contribute to clogged pores for some individuals.

For sensitive skin, consider adjusting the cleanser formula:

  • Reduce the concentration of Propylene Glycol and Glycerin (e.g., to 10-15% each) and add more water.
  • Use Lactic Acid primarily to adjust the pH of the cleanser to a skin-friendly range (typically between pH 5.0-6.5) rather than for exfoliation benefits.
  • Consider replacing or using Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) in addition to or instead of Vitamin B3, as Panthenol is known for its soothing and skin barrier support properties, which can be beneficial for sensitive skin.

Request for Clinic Cleanser Formula

Unfortunately, we do not have the specific formula for the facial cleanser from ษิตาวรรณคลินิก. If you have the product label with the ingredient list, you can share it, and we can help analyze the components.