Skin Spray Formulation Issues: Oil Separation, Texture, and Fragrance Longevity

Subject: Skin Spray Formula Review and Recommendations

Thank you for sharing your skin spray formula and the issues you encountered. Based on your description and the staff's feedback, here's a review and recommended adjustments:

Formula Review and Problems

Your initial formula included:

• Aloe Vera Extract 2%
• Glycerin 3 %
• Calendula 5%
• Chamomile 1%
• Skin Defense 2%
• Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate 0.5%
• Coconut Oil 7.5%
• Water 79%
• Essential Oil (approx. 3 drops)
• Polysorbate 20 (estimated 50% of oil)

The problems you observed were:

1. Yellow color.
2. Oil separation.
3. Short-lasting fragrance.
4. Watery feel with slight oiliness that evaporates quickly.

Analysis and Recommendations

The staff correctly identified that the main issue causing oil separation is the lack of a suitable emulsifier. Polysorbate 20 is not effective for properly emulsifying the amount of oil (Coconut Oil + Essential Oil) in your formula with the water phase.

The staff recommends using Oil Blender as a suitable emulsifier for this type of spray formula. They also suggest using Fractionated Coconut Oil instead of regular Coconut Oil, as it is lighter and more suitable for sprays.

Here's how the recommended adjustments address your problems:

• Yellow color: The staff notes that the color likely comes from some of the extracts and ingredients like Aloe Vera Extract, Calendula, Chamomile, and Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate. If you prefer a colorless spray, you can consider reducing or omitting these ingredients.
• Oil separation: This is directly addressed by using Oil Blender as the emulsifier. It will help create a stable, uniform mixture of the oil and water phases.
• Short-lasting fragrance: Essential oils are volatile. While proper emulsification helps distribute the oil phase (containing the fragrance) evenly, the longevity of the scent depends on the specific essential oil used and the application method (spray). The staff's recommended percentage (1-2%) is a standard range for essential oils in formulations.
• Feel: The initial watery feel is due to the high water content. The slight oiliness comes from the oil phase. If you want a less oily feel, you would need to reduce or remove the oil content, as the staff mentioned that around 10% oil is quite high for a non-oily feel. To reduce the watery feel, you can add Flora Solve or Flora Solve Clear at 1-3% to the water phase.

Recommended Revised Formula

Based on the staff's suggestions, here is a revised formula structure using percentages by weight:

Oil Phase:

• Oil Blender: 2%
• Fractionated Coconut Oil: 7.5%
• Essential Oil: 1-2% (Adjust within this range based on desired scent strength)

Water Phase:

• Aloe Vera Extract: 2% (Optional - omit if colorless desired)
• Glycerin: 3 %
• Calendula: 5% (Optional - omit if colorless desired)
• Chamomile: 1% (Optional - omit if colorless desired)
• Skin Defense: 2%
• Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate: 0.5% (Optional - omit if colorless desired)
• Phenoxyethanol SA (Preservative): 1%
• Flora Solve or Flora Solve Clear: 1-3% (Optional - for less watery feel)
• Water: Balance (Add water to reach a total of 100% after adding all other ingredients)

Mixing Procedure:

1. Combine the ingredients for the Oil Phase and mix until uniform.
2. Combine the ingredients for the Water Phase and mix until uniform.
3. Slowly add the Oil Phase to the Water Phase while stirring continuously. Use a high-shear mixer if available to ensure proper emulsification until the mixture is smooth and uniform.

Measurement

For accurate formulation, especially with small percentages, it is highly recommended to measure all ingredients by weight using a precise digital scale. Using drops for ingredients like Essential Oil can lead to inconsistent results. Aim to measure 1-2% of the total batch weight for your Essential Oil.

We hope this revised formula and explanation help you create a stable and effective skin spray!