Skin Whitening/Smoothing Cream Formula with High Active Concentrations (Vitamin C, A, B3)

Asked by: pnt-i On: August 21, 2013 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have developed a cream formula for skin whitening and smoothness with the following ingredients and percentages:

  • Water District 20%
  • Phenoxyethanol 1%
  • Light Cream Maker 2%
  • Propylene Glycol 15%
  • Vitamin A 1.5%
  • Vitamin B3 15%
  • Glutathione 1.5%
  • Azelaic Acid 10%
  • Avocado Oil 8%
  • Vitamin C 10%

I would like expert feedback on this formula. Specifically, I have been asked about the specific types of Vitamin C and Vitamin A used and the high percentage of Vitamin B3. What are the potential issues with this formula, particularly regarding the high concentrations of active ingredients like Vitamin B3 (15%), Azelaic Acid (10%), Vitamin C (10%), and Vitamin A (1.5%), and their compatibility and stability? How can I improve this formula for safety and effectiveness?

Answer

Based on the conversation and the feedback you've received, here's an analysis of your latest formula aiming for skin whitening and smoothness, addressing the points raised by the staff:

Your latest formula includes:

  • Water District 20%
  • Phenoxyethanol 1%
  • Light Cream Maker 2%
  • Propylene Glycol 15%
  • Vitamin A 1.5%
  • Vitamin B3 15%
  • Glutathione 1.5%
  • Azelaic Acid 10%
  • Avocado Oil 8%
  • Vitamin C 10%

You've included several ingredients known for targeting whitening and skin texture, such as Azelaic Acid, Vitamin B3, Glutathione, Vitamin C, and Vitamin A. The base with Light Cream Maker and Avocado Oil seems appropriate for creating a cream texture.

However, the staff's feedback highlights crucial points that need careful consideration:

  1. Specific Types of Vitamin C and Vitamin A: As the staff mentioned, the type of Vitamin C and Vitamin A you are using is very important. Different forms have varying stability, penetration, efficacy, and recommended usage rates. For example, some forms of Vitamin C are much more stable than others, and different retinoids (forms of Vitamin A) have different potencies and potential for irritation. You need to specify which exact forms you are using.
  2. High Percentage of Vitamin B3: A concentration of 15% Vitamin B3 (likely Niacinamide) is quite high. While Niacinamide is beneficial for many skin concerns including barrier function, pore appearance, and potentially hyperpigmentation, typical recommended usage rates are often between 2-5%, sometimes up to 10% for specific issues. Using 15% could significantly increase the risk of skin irritation, redness, and flushing, especially when combined with other active ingredients.
  3. Checking Usage Guidelines: The staff's advice to check the details, limitations, and recommended usage amounts for Vitamin C, Vitamin A, Vitamin B3, and Glutathione on the website is very important. Each ingredient has specific guidelines based on its properties and safety data. Adhering to these recommendations is crucial for both efficacy and safety.
  4. Glutathione: While Glutathione is a powerful antioxidant, its effectiveness as a topical whitening agent is debated, and its stability in formulations can be challenging. Ensure the form you are using is suitable for topical application and stable in your chosen base.
  5. High Concentration of Multiple Actives: Your formula contains several active ingredients (Propylene Glycol 15%, Vitamin B3 15%, Azelaic Acid 10%, Vitamin C 10%, Vitamin A 1.5%, Glutathione 1.5%) at relatively high concentrations. Combining multiple potent actives increases the likelihood of skin irritation, sensitivity, or adverse reactions.

In summary: While your formula contains ingredients that target your goals of whitening and smoothness, the specific types and high concentrations of several actives, particularly Vitamin B3 at 15%, require careful review. It is highly recommended to follow the staff's advice:

  • Clearly identify the specific types of Vitamin C and Vitamin A you are using.
  • Review the recommended usage rates and limitations for all your active ingredients (Vitamin C, Vitamin A, Vitamin B3, Glutathione, Azelaic Acid) based on the supplier's information or reliable cosmetic formulation resources.
  • Consider reducing the concentration of Vitamin B3 to a more standard level (e.g., 5-10%) to minimize irritation risk.
  • Be mindful of the potential for irritation when combining multiple high-percentage actives.

Adjusting the formula based on these points will help ensure it is safer, more stable, and potentially more effective.