Skincare for Dry, Flaky, Acne-Prone Skin and Formulation Questions

Asked by: poolyplus On: January 18, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have complex skin issues: dryness and flaking (especially in the U-zone and in air conditioning) but also oiliness (T-zone and in hot weather), large pores, wrinkles that look worse when dry, and acne breakouts, particularly from sticky textures.

I am currently using Squalane oil 100% on my face, but it hasn't helped with the dryness; my skin is still dry, rough, and peeling. I'm wondering if changing from a cream formula to a skin oil would help, but the staff suggested it might not and could even cause more clogged pores.

I previously tried a cream formula that caused significant acne breakouts. The formula was:

  • Pentylene Glycol 3%
  • Vitamin B3 2%
  • Acetyl Glucosamine 2%
  • Active Resveratrol 3%
  • Phenoxyethanol 0.3%
  • Distilled Water (rest)

I also tried a gentle gel cleanser with the following formula:

  • Creamy Foamer 3%
  • BabyFoam 2%
  • Coco Betain 1%
  • Phenonip 0.5%
  • Distilled Water (rest)

I had a bad reaction to BHA, which caused dryness, stinging, redness, and worsened acne.

I have a question about the solubility of Pterostilbene. Is it oil-soluble like Squalane, or water-soluble like Active Resveratrol? I tried mixing Active Resveratrol into Squalane, and it became cloudy and had sediment, confirming it's not oil-soluble.

Given my skin's unusual reaction (dryness not improving with Squalane, acne from a seemingly gentle cream, negative reaction to BHA), what could be the possible underlying issues, and what kind of skincare approach or ingredients should I consider, keeping in mind my preference for non-sticky textures? The staff recommended consulting a dermatologist due to the complex and unusual symptoms.

Answer

Skincare for Dry, Flaky, Acne-Prone Skin (Dislikes Sticky Texture)

Based on your detailed description and the feedback from the staff:

  • You are experiencing a combination of dry, flaky skin (especially in the U-zone and in air conditioning), oiliness (T-zone and in hot weather), large pores, wrinkles that worsen with dryness, and acne that seems triggered by sticky textures.
  • You asked about the solubility of Pterostilbene. The staff confirmed that Pterostilbene is oil-soluble, while Active Resveratrol is water-soluble.
  • Your proposed oil formula was not feasible as Active Resveratrol is water-soluble and would not dissolve properly in an oil base like Squalane, which you observed as cloudiness/sediment.
  • The cream formula you tried caused significant acne breakouts, although the staff noted that the ingredients themselves are not typically acne-causing.
  • Your current routine (gentle cleanser, essence with water-soluble actives, Squalane oil) is not effectively resolving the dryness or preventing acne. The staff mentioned that Squalane should normally help with dryness, and its failure to do so in your case is unusual.
  • You also had a negative experience with BHA, which caused dryness, stinging, redness, and worsened acne.

Given the complexity of your skin symptoms and its unusual reactions to various products and ingredients, the staff strongly recommended consulting a dermatologist. Your skin condition appears to be more complex than typical dryness or acne and may require professional diagnosis and treatment to address the underlying issues causing the persistent dryness, flaking, sensitivity, and acne breakouts.

While you prefer non-sticky textures and an oil-based product, addressing the root cause of your skin's imbalance is crucial. A dermatologist can provide tailored advice and treatment options that are safe and effective for your specific skin needs.