Skincare Formula Questions: Vitamin C, Compatibility, Layering, and Moisturizers

Asked by: sarn38 On: July 22, 2020 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have a formula with the following ingredients:
1.[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/499-ascorbyl-tetraisopalmitate-tetrahexyldecyl-ascorbate.html:68tjav3r]Perfect-C[/url:68tjav3r] 5%
2.[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2/1333-benzotriazolyl-dodecyl-p-cresol.html:68tjav3r]Protec UV[/url:68tjav3r] 0.1%
3.[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B9%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0/65-vitamin-e-tocopheryl-acetate-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B5.html:68tjav3r]Vitamin E Acetate[/url:68tjav3r] 0.5%
4.[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/emulsifier/141-light-cream-maker-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A1.html:68tjav3r]Light Cream Maker[/url:68tjav3r] 1%
5.[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2/928-optiphen-plus.html:68tjav3r]Phenoxyethanol SA[/url:68tjav3r] 1%
6.[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%9A%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%84%E0%B9%8C/184-disodium-edta-2na.html:68tjav3r]EDTA[/url:68tjav3r] 0.2%
7.[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%8C%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C/111-panthenol-pro-vitamin-b5-%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B55.html:68tjav3r]Pro Vitamin B5[/url:68tjav3r] 1%
8.Remaining Water

I have some questions:

  1. Can this formula be mixed? Are there any issues or necessary adjustments? Is a penetration enhancer ([url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/121-penetration-enhancer-%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B9%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7:68tjav3r]Penetration Enhancer[/url:68tjav3r]) needed?
  2. After applying this Vitamin C formula, can I apply skincare with Ceramide ([url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2/749-ceramide-complex-ceratouch-powder.html:68tjav3r]Ceramide[/url:68tjav3r]) like CeraVe lotion? Will it pill on the skin?
  3. If I want to add a moisturizer, which one should I add to enhance the effectiveness of Vitamin C ([url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/133-vitamin-c-l-ascorbic-acid-ultra-fine-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B5.html:68tjav3r]Vitamin C[/url:68tjav3r]) (Perfect-C)? (I intend to only apply this and sunscreen in the morning but am worried about dryness as I have dry skin, so I want to add a moisturizer ([url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/14-%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%8C%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C:68tjav3r]moisturizer[/url:68hjav3r]))
  4. If I change the formula to just Perfect-C 5%, EDTA 0.2%, Phenoxyethanol 0.5%, Protec UV 0.1% mixed with [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%AA%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87/864-aloe-vera-gel-lite.html:68tjav3r]Aloe Vera Gel Lite[/url:68tjav3r] base to make 100%, can it be mixed?

Answer

Subject: Regarding your Vitamin C formula questions

Here are the answers to your questions about the proposed formula using Perfect-C:

  • Question 1: Can this formula be mixed? Are there issues or necessary adjustments? Is a penetration enhancer needed?
    Yes, this formula can generally be mixed to create an emulsion. The ingredients you've chosen are commonly used together. Perfect-C (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) is an oil-soluble form of Vitamin C, and the Light Cream Maker acts as an emulsifier to help mix the oil-soluble ingredients with water, forming a stable cream or lotion. The percentages seem reasonable as a starting point.
    There are no obvious major compatibility issues. However, the final texture and stability will depend on the specific Light Cream Maker product and the mixing process. It's always recommended to perform a small test batch and observe its stability over time (e.g., check for separation, color change, odor change).
    Regarding a penetration enhancer, Perfect-C is known to penetrate the skin well due to its oil-soluble nature. While a penetration enhancer ([Product ID 121: Penetration Enhancer]) could potentially improve the speed or depth of absorption, it is not strictly necessary for this form of Vitamin C to be effective. The formula should work without one.

  • Question 2: After applying this Vitamin C formula, can I apply skincare with Ceramide (like CeraVe lotion) without pilling?
    Applying a Ceramide-containing product like CeraVe lotion after this formula is generally fine in terms of ingredient compatibility between Perfect-C and Ceramides. Pilling (the formation of small balls on the skin) is usually caused by the interaction of different formulation bases (thickeners, polymers, etc.) when layered, rather than a direct incompatibility between the active ingredients themselves.
    To minimize pilling, ensure the first layer (your Perfect-C formula) is fully absorbed and feels dry to the touch before applying the next product (CeraVe lotion). The likelihood of pilling depends on the specific textures and ingredients in both formulations.

  • Question 3: If I want to add a moisturizer, which one would enhance the effectiveness of Vitamin C (Perfect-C) and help with dry skin?
    To boost moisture for dry skin and complement the Perfect-C, consider adding ingredients that improve hydration and support the skin barrier. Good options include:

    • Hyaluronic Acid: A powerful humectant that draws moisture into the skin.
    • Ceramides ([Product ID 749: Ceramide Complex]): Essential lipids that help repair and strengthen the skin barrier, reducing moisture loss.
    • Niacinamide: Can improve skin barrier function, reduce redness, and offers complementary benefits to Vitamin C.
      Adding one or a combination of these can help keep your skin hydrated throughout the day, which supports overall skin health and can indirectly help the skin benefit more from active ingredients like Perfect-C. You could look for a serum or light lotion containing these ingredients to apply before your Perfect-C formula or mix a small amount into your formula if compatible with the base.
  • Question 4: If I change the formula to just Perfect-C, EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Protec UV mixed with Aloe Vera Gel Lite base, can it be mixed?
    No, this simplified formula is unlikely to mix properly and will likely separate. Perfect-C (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) is oil-soluble. Aloe Vera Gel Lite ([Product ID 864: Aloe Vera Gel Lite]) is a water-based gel. Mixing an oil directly into a water-based gel without an emulsifier ([Product ID 141: Light Cream Maker] was in your original formula) will not create a stable mixture. The oil and water phases will separate.
    You need an emulsifier to create a stable emulsion that can incorporate the oil-soluble Perfect-C into a water-based system like a gel or cream. The original formula with the Light Cream Maker is designed correctly to achieve this.