Skincare Formulation Advice and Ingredient Questions

ถามโดย: babyfaceskin เมื่อ: June 24, 2013 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I have a few questions regarding skincare formulations:

  1. For a brightening and dark spot formula for a 21-year-old with oily T-zone and enlarged pores, I plan to use the following ingredients: Glucosamine, Vitamin B3, Alpha Arbutin, Licorice root extract, Centella asiatica/gotu kola, Green tea EGCG, Vitamin B5 /D-panthenol, and Allantoin. Is this combination suitable for brightening and reducing dark spots? Will having many ingredients make the skin worse, or just affect the texture (make it sticky)? Are Centella asiatica/gotu kola, Green tea EGCG, and Vitamin B5 /D-panthenol essential if the main goal is just brightening and dark spot reduction?
  2. For an anti-aging formula for my mother (42 years old, starting to have wrinkles), the staff suggested a base with Glucosamine, Vitamin B3, Matrixyl 3000, Argireline, Centella asiatica/gotu kola, and Vitamin B5 /D-panthenol, adding Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids for very dry skin. I'm considering adding other peptides. Could you explain the function of Matrixyl 3000, Argireline, SNAP-8 (Acetyl Octapeptide-3), and Tego Pep 4-17 (Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7)? Which combination is better for reducing wrinkles: 8% Matrixyl 3000 + 10% Argireline or 5% Tego Pep 4-17 + SNAP-8? How do these combinations compare in terms of efficacy and cost?
  3. Can I add a gelling agent like Xanthan Gum to the Witch Hazel toner tester to make it thicker? Will this affect its properties or intended use?

คำตอบ

Skincare Formulation Advice

Your Brightening and Dark Spot Formula (Age 21, Oily T-zone, Enlarged Pores)

Based on the ingredients you listed (Glucosamine, Vitamin B3, Alpha Arbutin, Licorice root extract, Centella asiatica/gotu kola, Green tea EGCG, Vitamin B5 /D-panthenol, Allantoin) and your goal of brightening and reducing dark spots:

  • The combination of ingredients is generally suitable for brightening and addressing dark spots.
  • Having many ingredients in a formula doesn't necessarily damage the skin if used within recommended percentages, but it can result in a sticky texture.
  • For your specific goal of only brightening and reducing dark spots, the ingredients Centella asiatica/gotu kola, Green tea EGCG, and Vitamin B5 /D-panthenol are considered less essential and could potentially be omitted if you prefer a simpler formula.
  • The scent of the formula will be derived from the ingredients themselves, as no fragrance is added.

Mother's Anti-Aging Formula (Age 42, Starting Wrinkles)

For reducing wrinkles and providing moisture, the staff suggested a base formula including Glucosamine, Vitamin B3, Matrixyl 3000, Argireline, Centella asiatica/gotu kola, and Vitamin B5 /D-panthenol, recommending Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids for very dry skin.

Regarding the peptide options you asked about adding:

  • Matrixyl 3000 (contains Pal-GHK and Pal-GQPR) is known for stimulating collagen synthesis, improving skin elasticity, and reducing the appearance of wrinkles. It works by signaling the skin to produce more collagen and other components important for skin structure.
  • Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8) works by targeting the muscle contractions that contribute to expression lines and wrinkles, particularly around the eyes and forehead. It helps to relax these muscles, thus reducing the appearance of wrinkles. It is often used in conjunction with collagen-stimulating peptides like Matrixyl 3000 for a more comprehensive anti-aging effect.
  • SNAP-8 (Acetyl Octapeptide-3) is a peptide similar to Argireline, also designed to reduce muscle contractions and lessen the depth of wrinkles. It is considered to have potentially greater efficacy than Argireline for this purpose.
  • Tego Pep 4-17 (likely Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7) is one of the peptides found in Matrixyl 3000. Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 is known for its collagen-stimulating properties and its role in reducing inflammation, which can contribute to skin aging.

Comparing the two combinations:

  • 8% Matrixyl 3000 + 10% Argireline: This combination provides both collagen stimulation (Matrixyl 3000) and muscle relaxation for wrinkles (Argireline).
  • 5% Tego Pep 4-17 + SNAP-8: This combination also provides collagen stimulation (Tego Pep 4-17, which is part of Matrixyl 3000) and muscle relaxation (SNAP-8). SNAP-8 is noted as potentially more effective than Argireline for relaxing muscle contractions.

Both combinations offer a dual approach to anti-aging by addressing both collagen production and muscle-related wrinkles. The choice between them may depend on the desired intensity of the muscle-relaxing effect (SNAP-8 potentially stronger than Argireline) and cost considerations, as you mentioned. The staff's suggested formula includes Matrixyl 3000 and Argireline.

Adding Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids is a good option for increasing hydration, especially for drier skin.

Modifying Witch Hazel Toner

While toner is typically used for wiping, it is possible to change its texture to a gel by adding a gelling agent. Xanthan Gum is an example of a suitable gelling agent for this purpose. However, the staff advises that this changes the intended use of the product from a wipe-on toner to a gel application.

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
เครื่องสำอาง
Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000)
Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000)
เครื่องสำอาง
Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
เครื่องสำอาง
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
เครื่องสำอาง
Allantoin
Allantoin
เครื่องสำอาง
Panthenol (Vitamin B5, DL-Panthenol, Powder)
Panthenol (Vitamin B5, DL-Panthenol, Powder)
เครื่องสำอาง
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
เครื่องสำอาง
Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids (e.q. Prodew 400)
Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids (e.q. Prodew 400)
เครื่องสำอาง
Xanthan Gum (clear gel type, smooth texture)
Xanthan Gum (clear gel type, smooth texture)
เครื่องสำอาง
Hi-EGCG™ (Green Tea Extract)
Hi-EGCG™ (Green Tea Extract)
เครื่องสำอาง
Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%)
Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%)
เครื่องสำอาง
Licorice Extract (Glabridin 4.5%, Water-Soluble)
Licorice Extract (Glabridin 4.5%, Water-Soluble)
เครื่องสำอาง
Acetyl Octapeptide-3 (eq. SNAP-8)
Acetyl Octapeptide-3 (eq. SNAP-8)
เครื่องสำอาง
LipX™-Defensyl (Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 Peptide Powder)
LipX™-Defensyl (Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 Peptide Powder)
เครื่องสำอาง