Skincare Formulation Advice for Mature, Sensitive Skin: Peptides, MSM, Kinetin, and Tranexamic Acid
Question
Skincare Formulation Questions for Mature, Sensitive Skin
I have several questions regarding formulating skincare products for mature, sensitive skin with concerns about wrinkles and uneven tone:
- Should I choose between using Peptide or DMAE, or can I mix them in the same formula?
- If I focus on a peptide formula for mature skin, what is a recommended formulation using the following ingredients and concentrations:
- Hyaluron Base
- Nano White 5%
- Delentigo 5%
- Vitamin B3 2%
- Amino Acid 3%
- Vitamin B5 3%
- Kinetin 0.1%
- Matrixyl 3000 5%
- Argireline 10%
- Note: I am concerned about the texture potentially becoming sticky or heavy, possibly making it only suitable for nighttime use. What are the specific functions of Argireline and Matrixyl 3000?
- Can Pure MSM be added to a BHA (Salicylic Acid) Time Release Toner? Would adding Zinc PCA also be suitable for oily skin to help reduce oil production and accelerate acne scar healing?
- Is Kinetin currently available for sale? How should Kinetin be mixed into a base like Aloe Vera Gel Base or liquid Hyaluron Base? I'm concerned about potential dissolution or precipitation issues, especially if adding it later, and how adding many ingredients might affect the texture in a gel base.
- Can Tranexamic Acid be added to the peptide formula mentioned in question 2 to help with melasma and uneven skin tone? Is it water-soluble, and can it be added later to a pre-mixed base? Would using a nano-emulsified version like Nano-TXA offer improved skin penetration?
Answer
Skincare Formulation Advice for Mature, Sensitive Skin
Based on your questions and the previous discussion, here is a summary of the formulation advice for your skin type (normal, sensitive, with wrinkles and uneven tone) and your specific questions:
Peptide vs. DMAE
It is recommended to choose between using DMAE or peptides in your formula. Mixing them is not advised if you want to clearly evaluate the effectiveness of each ingredient on your skin.
Peptide Formulation
If you opt for a peptide-focused formula, the suggested ingredients and concentrations for mature skin are:
- Hyaluron Base
- Nano White 5%
- Delentigo 5%
- Vitamin B3 2%
- Amino Acid 3%
- Vitamin B5 3%
- Kinetin 0.1%
- Matrixyl 3000 8% (increased from 5% for mature skin)
- Argireline 10%
Adding multiple active ingredients, especially at higher concentrations and in a gel base like Hyaluron Base or Aloe Vera Gel Base, can potentially lead to a sticky or heavy texture. This might make the product more suitable for nighttime use.
- Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8) is primarily used to reduce the appearance of existing wrinkles caused by muscle movement, particularly on the forehead and around the eyes.
- Matrixyl 3000 (Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR) helps stimulate collagen synthesis and improve skin elasticity, addressing wrinkles and promoting overall skin youthfulness. It is recommended for preventing and delaying wrinkles, and can be used alone if wrinkles are not yet present.
MSM in BHA Toner
Yes, Pure MSM can be added to a BHA (Salicylic Acid) Time Release Toner. It can help control oiliness and provides exfoliation at concentrations above 3%. Adding Zinc PCA is also suitable for oily skin to help reduce oil production and accelerate acne scar healing.
Kinetin Availability and Mixing
According to the previous reply, Kinetin was available for sale from October 14, 2013. For current availability, please check with staff.
Regarding mixing, Kinetin can be added to a base like Aloe Vera Gel Base, which may have sufficient viscosity. However, adding Kinetin later to a liquid Hyaluron Base is not recommended as it may not dissolve properly and could precipitate. Be mindful that incorporating many ingredients into a gel base can still result in a sticky texture.
Adding Tranexamic Acid
Tranexamic Acid can be added to the peptide formula to help address melasma and uneven skin tone. It is water-soluble and can be added later to a pre-mixed base. Using a nano-emulsified version like Nano-TXA may offer improved skin penetration.
Related Products Mentioned
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Salicylic Acid (BHA, Pharma Grade)
Aloe Vera Gel (Heavy)
Pure MSM™ (Methylsulfonylmethane)
Zinc PCA
Aloe Vera Gel (Lite)
Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™)
Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base