Skincare Formulation Advice: Lifting, Wrinkles, Melasma, Freckles

Here is a summary of the staff's advice regarding your two skincare formulations for combination skin with melasma, freckles, wrinkles, and loss of firmness:

Formula 1: Lifting, Anti-wrinkle

1. Adjustments:

   • Reduce Repair Activator™ from 15% to 10%.
   • Add DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid 5-7% for enhanced lifting and wrinkle reduction.
   • Add Safe-B3™ 3% to strengthen the skin.
   • Lift-Now™ provides temporary tightening and is best for daytime use. For nighttime or if uncomfortable, consider a lower percentage (1-2%) or omitting it.
   • Reduce Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker) from 2% to no more than 1.5% to prevent lumpiness.

   Revised formula suggested by staff:

   • Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline) 10%
   • Matrixyl 3000 5%
   • Lift-Now™ (use sparingly or omit)
   • Repair Activator™ 10%
   • Copper Peptide (GHK-Cu) 3%
   • Full & Lift™ 5%
   • Coenzyme Q10 Extra 1%
   • Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 7.7%) 2%
   • Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker) 1.5%
   • Phenoxyethanol (Optiphen) 1% (or Phenoxyethanol SA 1% for sensitive skin)
   • Safe-B3™ 3%
   • DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid 5%
   • DI water to 100%

2. Mixing Steps:

   • Combine ingredients 1, 2, 4, 5, 10, 11, 12 with DI water (13) and mix until clear.
   • Add Pro Polymer™ (9) and mix/blend until a gel forms.
   • Warm Full & Lift™ (6) to 60°C, mix until smooth, then add to the gel and mix.
   • Add the remaining ingredients (7, 8) to the gel and mix.

3. pH Adjustment:

   • The staff's advice did not include instructions for pH adjustment for this formula.

Formula 2: Melasma/Freckle Reduction, Exfoliation

1. Adjustments:

   • DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid was recommended for Formula 1 as it focuses on lifting/wrinkles, not melasma/exfoliation.
   • Relevant ingredients from your list for this purpose are Pumpkin Renew™ 5%, Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™) 10%, Vitamin B3, Niacinamide (Safe-B3™) 2%, N-Acetyl-D glucosamine (GlucoBright™) 4%, Phenoxyethanol (Optiphen) 1%, and DI water.
   • For enhanced whitening/melasma reduction, consider adding Activated Resorcinol 1% (must be dissolved in oil or LipidSoft before adding to the formula).

2. Suitable Texture (Gel or Lotion):

   • Due to the high concentration of Azelaic Acid (an electrolyte), the staff recommended a gel texture using Pro Polymer™ at 1.5-2.0%. The electrolyte effect weakens the gel structure, requiring a higher amount of gel maker.

3. Mixing Steps (for Gel):

   • Combine all water-soluble ingredients (Pumpkin Renew™, Azelaic Acid, Panthenol, Safe-B3™, GlucoBright™, Phenoxyethanol, DI water) first.
   • Then add Pro Polymer™ and mix/blend until a gel forms. This may take longer than usual due to the electrolyte effect of Azelaic Acid.

4. pH Adjustment:

   • The staff's advice did not include instructions for pH adjustment for this formula.