Skincare Formulation Feedback: Whitening Gel, Toner, and Ingredient Advice

Asked by: dumdim On: February 19, 2014 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I would like feedback on the following formulations and ingredient questions:

Whitening Gel Formula:

  • vitamin B3 4%
  • อัลฟ่าอาร์บูติน 2%
  • Bio-Yeast Essence 1%
  • SNAIL SECRETION เมือกหอยทาก 3%
  • Xanthan Gum 1%
  • phenoxylethanol 1%
  • Rest is water.

Could you recommend adding n-acetyl glucosamine to this formula to work with Vitamin B3 for faster whitening efficacy?

Also, between อัลฟ่าอาร์บูติน and Vitamin C, which one provides faster whitening results?

Toner Formula:

  • Glycolic Acid (AHA) 10%
  • Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside) สารสกัดจากใบบัวบก 3%
  • Aloe Vera Extract 1%

Could you recommend an ingredient that helps tighten pores for this toner formula?

Answer

Skincare Formulation Feedback and Ingredient Advice

Here is some feedback on your formulations and answers to your questions:

Whitening Gel Formula

Your proposed whitening gel formula includes several effective ingredients:

  • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): Known for its multiple benefits, including reducing hyperpigmentation, improving skin barrier function, and reducing oiliness.
  • Alpha Arbutin: A well-regarded skin brightening agent that works by inhibiting the enzyme responsible for melanin production.
  • Bio-Yeast Essence: Ingredients derived from yeast fermentation can offer brightening, hydration, and support for the skin barrier.
  • Snail Secretion: Provides skin conditioning, helps reduce irritation, and supports skin repair.
  • Xanthan Gum: Acts as a thickener to create the gel texture.
  • Phenoxyethanol: Serves as a preservative to keep the product safe.

Adding N-acetyl Glucosamine to this formula, as suggested, is an excellent idea. Research shows that N-acetyl Glucosamine works synergistically with Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) to enhance skin brightening and reduce the appearance of dark spots.

Alpha Arbutin vs. Vitamin C for Whitening Speed

Both Alpha Arbutin and Vitamin C are effective skin brightening ingredients, but they work through different mechanisms.

  • Alpha Arbutin primarily inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, which is crucial for melanin production.
  • Vitamin C (in its various forms like L-Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, or Ethyl Ascorbic Acid) is a powerful antioxidant that can help reduce pigment formation and also offers other benefits like collagen stimulation.

It is difficult to definitively say which one works "faster" as results can vary greatly depending on the individual's skin type, the specific formulation, the concentration used, and the cause of the hyperpigmentation. Some studies suggest Alpha Arbutin is highly effective at inhibiting tyrosinase. Potent forms of Vitamin C like L-Ascorbic Acid are also very effective brighteners.

Using a combination of brightening ingredients, such as Alpha Arbutin with Vitamin C, or Niacinamide with Alpha Arbutin, or Niacinamide with N-acetyl Glucosamine, can often provide more comprehensive and potentially faster results than using a single ingredient alone, as they target different pathways involved in pigmentation.

Toner Formula and Pore Tightening

Your toner formula combines:

  • Glycolic Acid (AHA): An alpha hydroxy acid that exfoliates the skin, promoting cell turnover and improving texture, which can help with dullness and rough skin. At 10%, it's a potent exfoliant, and ensuring the pH of the final product is appropriate (typically pH 3.5-4.0 for consumer products at this concentration) is important for efficacy and minimizing irritation. Using a buffered form like Ampho-Glycolic™ can also help reduce stinging.
  • Centella Asiatica Extract: Known for its soothing, anti-inflammatory, and skin-repairing properties, which is beneficial when using exfoliants like AHA.
  • Aloe Vera Extract: Provides hydration and helps to calm the skin.

To address the request for ingredients that help tighten pores, Witch Hazel is a classic and effective choice, as suggested. Witch Hazel distillate acts as an astringent, which can help to temporarily tighten the appearance of pores and provide a toning effect. Using an alcohol-free version is recommended to avoid dryness and irritation, especially in a formula already containing AHA. Witch Hazel with added Allantoin can provide extra soothing benefits.

Other ingredients that can help improve the appearance of pores often do so by reducing oil production or improving skin elasticity. Niacinamide, for example, is known to help reduce sebum excretion, which can make pores appear less prominent.

Recommended Ingredients

Based on your formulas and questions, here are some relevant ingredients:

  • Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
  • Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
  • GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
  • Snail Secretion
  • Xanthan Gum (clear gel type, smooth texture)
  • Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
  • Glycolic Acid (AHA) options like Glycopure™ (Glycolic Acid (AHA) 100% Powder) or Ampho-Glycolic™ (Non-Stinging Glycolic Acid Solution)
  • Centella Asiatica Extract options like Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%) or ActiveRelease™ Centella Asiatica
  • Aloe Vera Extract options like Aloe Vera Extract (extraction ratio 10:1 FullAssay™) or Aloe Vera Gel (Lite)
  • Witch Hazel options like Witch Hazel (Distillate - Alcohol Free, Paraben Free) or Witch Hazel (Alcohol Free, Paraben Free) Plus Allantoin
  • Vitamin C options like Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) (Ultra-Fine), Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G Stabilized Vitamin C), or Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, Vitamin C Ethyl Ether)
  • Yeast-derived ingredients like MYFerment™ Balance (Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate) or Yeast Radiance™