Skincare Formulation Advice for Oily, Acne-Prone, Sensitive Skin (50g)

Thank you for reaching out with your formulation questions. It's great that you're interested in creating a custom product for your skin concerns (oily, acne, clogged pores, sensitive, redness, dark spots).

You've listed several excellent ingredients, but let's refine the approach for a beginner formulator with sensitive skin.

Important Caution: Salicylic Acid 15%

Using Salicylic Acid at a 15% concentration is not recommended for a leave-on facial product, especially for sensitive skin. This concentration is typically used for medical procedures like chemical peels or wart removal and can cause severe irritation, burning, redness, excessive peeling, and damage to your skin barrier. For a leave-on product targeting acne and clogged pores, Salicylic Acid is usually used at concentrations between 0.5% and 2%.

Suggested Formulation Approach (50g)

Creating a formula with many active ingredients can be complex and potentially irritating for sensitive skin. Here is a suggested starting point using ingredients from your list, adjusted to appropriate concentrations for a 50g product suitable for sensitive, acne-prone skin:

• Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): 5% (2.5 g)
  • Benefit: Helps reduce oiliness, minimize pores, improve redness and dark spots, and strengthen the skin barrier.
• Azelaic Acid (as Potassium azeloyl diglycinate): 10% (5 g)
  • Benefit: Effective for treating acne, reducing clogged pores, fading dark spots and redness, and controlling oil production.
• Salicylic Acid (BHA): 1% (0.5 g)
  • Benefit: Helps to exfoliate the skin's surface and within pores, reducing clogged pores and acne.
  • Note: Standard Salicylic Acid powder is not water-soluble and requires dissolution in a solvent like Ethoxydiglycol or a small amount of alcohol/glycol before adding to a water-based formula. For easier formulation, consider using a water-soluble form like Liquid Salicylic Acid or SalicSoft™.
• Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A): 1% (0.5 g)
  • Benefit: Known for its anti-inflammatory properties, helping to reduce redness, irritation, and oiliness.
• Glucosamine (Acetyl Glucosamine): 4% (2 g)
  • Benefit: Works well with Niacinamide to improve dark spots. It also helps boost skin hydration and provides gentle exfoliation.
• Allantoin: 0.5% (0.25 g)
  • Benefit: A soothing ingredient that helps reduce irritation and supports skin healing.
• Aloe Vera Extract: 3% (1.5 g)
  • Benefit: Provides soothing, anti-inflammatory, and moisturizing benefits.
• Ethoxydiglycol: 2% (1 g)
  • Benefit: Acts as a solvent and can help improve the penetration of other ingredients. Note: Usage is subject to cosmetic regulations.

Other Necessary Components:

To complete your 50g formulation, you will need to add a base (primarily water), a thickener to create the desired texture (e.g., gel or serum), a preservative system to prevent microbial growth, and potentially a pH adjuster to ensure the formula is at an optimal and safe pH (typically between 4.5-6.0 for these actives, but check specific ingredient requirements).

Summary:

This revised formula incorporates key ingredients from your list at safer and effective concentrations for your skin type and concerns. It aims to address acne, oiliness, redness, and dark spots while being mindful of sensitivity. As a beginner, start with simple formulations and always perform a patch test before applying a new product to your entire face. Learning about basic formulation principles, including how to properly dissolve ingredients, create stable emulsions (if making a cream/lotion), and preserve your product, is crucial for DIY skincare.