Skincare Formulation for Oily Skin & Wrinkles: Ingredients & Stability
Question
I am developing a formulation for very oily skin with expression lines and deep wrinkles. My current ingredient plan includes:
- Argireline
- Leuphasyl
- Ectoin
- Phenoxyethanol
I would like feedback on this formulation. Specifically, I need recommendations for ingredients to target deeper wrinkles and control oiliness, as well as advice on the appropriate preservative and storage conditions to maintain the stability and efficacy of the active ingredients.
Answer
Formulation Feedback and Recommendations
Thank you for sharing your proposed formulation and questions. Based on your goal to reduce expression lines and deep wrinkles on your very oily skin, and considering the feedback from the staff and cosmeceutical7, here are some recommendations:
Anti-Aging Ingredients
Your inclusion of Argireline and Leuphasyl is excellent for targeting expression lines (like those on the forehead and between the brows) by helping to relax muscle contractions. To also address deeper wrinkles and improve overall skin structure, adding Matrixyl 3000 is highly recommended, as suggested by the staff. Matrixyl 3000 works by stimulating collagen synthesis.
- Consider using Argireline at 5-10% and Matrixyl 3000 at 5-8% for comprehensive anti-aging effects targeting both types of wrinkles.
Addressing Oily Skin
Since you have very oily skin, the suggestion to remove Ectoin is appropriate as its primary function is moisturizing, which your skin may not need extra of. To help control oil production, consider adding ingredients like:
- Azelaic Acid: Recommended by cosmeceutical7, it helps reduce oiliness, minimize clogged pores, and also offers skin brightening benefits.
- Licochalcone A (from Licorice Extract): Recommended by the staff, it is known for its sebum-regulating properties and can help control facial oil.
Adding one or both of these ingredients can significantly improve the formulation's suitability for oily skin.
Preservative, Shelf Life, and Storage
- The Phenoxyethanol included in the tester kit is sufficient as a preservative for the formulation under proper storage conditions. You should not add more than the recommended amount.
- For optimal shelf life and to maintain the efficacy of the active ingredients, especially peptides like Argireline, Leuphasyl, and Matrixyl 3000, it is strongly recommended to store the finished product in the refrigerator.
- While storing at room temperature might not cause immediate spoilage, it can reduce the potency and effective lifespan of the active ingredients over time. Refrigeration helps ensure the ingredients remain active for as long as possible.
In summary, your base formulation is good for expression lines. To enhance it for deeper wrinkles and manage your oily skin, consider adding Matrixyl 3000 and an oil control ingredient like Azelaic Acid or Licochalcone A, while omitting Ectoin. Always store the final product in the refrigerator.
Related Products Mentioned
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000)
Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
Allantoin
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
Double Hyaluron Liquid
Ectoine (Ectoin, from Bio-fermentation)
Pure-EGCG™ (Green Tea Extract, 98% EGCG)