Skincare Formulation for Very Dry, Sensitive Skin with Psoriasis and Steroid Use

Question

I need advice on formulating skincare products for my sister who has very dry, sensitive, cracked, and flaky skin due to psoriasis and long-term use of steroid cream (Elomet). She also has wrinkles.

Specifically, I have the following questions:

For Facial Skin: I plan to use an Aloe Gel Base and add active ingredients to reduce wrinkles and increase moisture. I want to add Sea Kelp Extract (5%), Beta Glucan (2%), and Repair Activator (10%). The Aloe Gel Base already contains a preservative. Do I need to add an additional broad-spectrum preservative?
For Body Lotion: I want to make a lotion for her very dry body skin using approximately 20% natural oil mixed with moisturizing agents and amino acids. Is 20% oil sufficient for severely dry skin?
For Body Rash: Can I use an Aloe Gel Base mixed with Vitamin B12 to replace the steroid medication (Elomet) for the rash on her body?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Hello! I understand you want to help your sister who is facing issues with sensitive, dry, cracked, and flaky skin due to psoriasis and long-term steroid use. This is a complex skin problem that requires special care.

Based on the additional information and recommendations from the MySkinRecipes team, here is a summary of the advice:

For Facial Skin

Your idea of using an Aloe Gel Base and adding active ingredients to reduce wrinkles and increase moisture is good. The ingredients you chose – Sea Kelp Extract, Beta Glucan, and Repair Activator – are excellent choices recommended by the team for sensitive, irritated skin that needs regeneration. Sea Kelp Extract is also a good moisturizing agent.

Adding Active Ingredients and Preservatives: You asked if you need to add more preservative since the base already contains one. When adding a relatively high total percentage of active ingredients (5% + 2% + 10% = 17%) to a ready-made base, it is recommended to add an additional broad-spectrum preservative. Even though the base has a preservative, adding other ingredients can dilute the original preservative system or introduce microorganisms. Adding a preservative will help ensure the product's stability and safety from microbial contamination. You should also check the recommendations from the supplier of the Aloe Vera Gel base regarding the maximum percentage of additional ingredients that can be added without needing extra preservative. Gentle and recommended preservatives include Mild Preserved Eco, PE 1090 Preservative, or Mild Preserved COS.

For Body Lotion

You want to use about 20% natural oil mixed with moisturizing agents and amino acids and asked if 20% is too heavy for very dry skin.

Oil Percentage: Based on the MySkinRecipes team's advice for very dry and problematic skin like your sister's, it is recommended that the formula contains a total oil percentage of around 50% to provide a richer texture and sufficient moisture. 20% may not be enough for severely dry skin.
Recommended Oils/Ingredients: The team recommends SKIN-DEFENSE which is an oil. Using it at 10% will significantly increase the oil content in the formula and also helps reduce irritation and strengthen the skin barrier. You can also add other oils suitable for dry, sensitive skin, such as Shea Butter Light Oil or Shea Butter, to reach the desired total oil content of approximately 50%.

Using Aloe Gel Base Mixed with Vitamin B12 for Body Rash Instead of Steroid Medication

This is a very important question. It is strongly advised not to use Aloe Vera Gel mixed with Vitamin B12 to replace corticosteroid medication prescribed by a doctor.

Steroid medication is used to treat skin inflammation like psoriasis and has a strong anti-inflammatory effect.
Vitamin B12 and Aloe Vera Gel have soothing, anti-irritant, and moisturizing properties that are beneficial for problematic skin, but they cannot replace the strong immunosuppressive or anti-inflammatory effects of steroid medication.
Stopping steroid medication suddenly or switching to other products without consulting a doctor can lead to a Rebound Effect, where the rash flares up severely.
Correct Approach: You should consult a dermatologist to plan a gradual reduction of the medication under medical supervision. Skincare products containing Vitamin B12 and other ingredients that help strengthen the skin barrier, reduce inflammation, and moisturize (as recommended by the team below) serve as supportive products to help restore skin weakened by medication, reduce dryness, cracking, and flaking, and improve overall skin health. They are not direct replacements for medication.

Recommended Nourishing Ingredients from MySkinRecipes Team for This Skin Type

The team recommends focusing on restoring the skin barrier, reducing irritation, and providing intense moisture first. As the skin becomes stronger, the appearance of wrinkles will also improve. Recommended ingredients include:

Ceramide Complex
Bisabolol
Beta Glucan
Vitamin B12
Vitamin B5
SKIN-DEFENSE
MOIST72
Double Hyaluron Liquid
Vitamin B3
HYDRO-Urea
Shea Butter / Shea Butter Light Oil

Skincare Approach

Consult a Doctor: The most important step is to consult a dermatologist to manage the psoriasis and the use of steroid medication.
Focus on Barrier Repair: Choose nourishing ingredients recommended by the team, especially Ceramide Complex, Bisabolol, SKIN-DEFENSE, and Vitamin B3.
Provide Intense Moisture: For very dry body skin, make a lotion with approximately 50% oil content as recommended by the team. You can primarily use Shea Butter Light Oil or SKIN-DEFENSE.
Avoid Irritants: Choose gentle bases and active ingredients free from fragrance, alcohol, and other substances that can easily irritate the skin.

I hope this advice is helpful for taking care of your sister's skin. Wishing you the best!