Skincare Formulation for Whitening, Anti-Aging, and Pore Tightening: Ingredient Compatibility, pH, and Texture
คำถาม
I am developing skincare formulas for various concerns. I would like feedback and clarification on the following:
- Initial Whitening & Pore Formula: My formula contains Nanowhite, Delentigo, Snail secretion, Bio yeast essence, Witch Hazel, and water. My skin is slightly dry with visible pores. Is this formula effective for brightening, pore tightening, and dark spots? What adjustments are recommended?
- Lactic Acid for Exfoliation: Can I use Lactic Acid AHA directly on the face at an effective concentration, leave it for 15 minutes, and then wash it off? What is the recommended starting concentration, and how should it be formulated? How do I calculate the amount of 70% Glycolic Acid needed to achieve a 10% concentration in a formula?
- Alpha-Arbutin Redundancy: If my formula already contains Nanowhite and Delentigo, would adding Alpha-Arbutin be redundant?
Anti-Aging & Firming Formula: I am proposing a formula for wrinkles and firming with the following ingredients:
- Matrixyl 3000
- Argireline
- Kinetin
- Pep-coll
- Pepha-tight
- Apple stem cell
- Sesaflash
- Vitamin B3
- Urea
- Water (46g in a 100g formula)
Are there any redundancies or recommended ingredient changes for slightly dry skin?
- Whitening Formula Comparison: Which would be more effective for whitening, dark spots, and pore tightening: The Vitamin C E Ferulic kit or my adjusted formula containing Delentigo, Alpha-Arbutin, Vitamin C Ultra Fine, Glutathione, Bio yeast essence, Witch Hazel, and water? Considering the potential cost-effectiveness of the kit.
- Adjusted Whitening Formula pH & Irritation: My adjusted whitening formula with Vitamin C Ultra Fine and Glutathione is expected to have a low pH (around 3.5). Will this pH level cause skin irritation?
คำตอบ
Summary of Your Skincare Formulation Questions and Feedback
Based on your questions and the feedback provided, here is a summary of the key points regarding your skincare formulations for brightening, dark spots, pore tightening, anti-aging, and wrinkles.
Initial Whitening & Pore Formula
Your initial formula included Nanowhite, Delentigo, Snail secretion, Bio yeast essence, Witch Hazel, and water. The goal was brightening, pore tightening, and addressing dark spots on slightly dry skin with visible pores.
- Feedback: It was recommended to remove Snail secretion for a stronger focus on whitening. Adding ingredients like Vitamin B3, N-Acetyl Glucosamine, and Alpha-Arbutin was suggested to enhance whitening and address dark spots. Increasing the amount of Witch Hazel was also recommended for pore tightening. It was noted that the formula lacked a gelling agent and would be watery; adding a thickener like Pro Polymer or Xanthan Gum was advised.
Lactic Acid for Exfoliation
You asked about using Lactic Acid AHA directly on the face for 15 minutes before washing off, and the effective concentration.
- Feedback: A starting concentration of 10% Lactic Acid was recommended, formulated as a water-based gel (e.g., using Pro Polymer). Glycolic Acid 10% was mentioned as an alternative, noting its smaller molecule size for potentially better skin penetration, although it is more expensive. The calculation for using 70% Glycolic Acid to achieve a 10% concentration in the final formula (14.3% of the 70% solution) was provided.
Alpha-Arbutin Redundancy
You inquired if adding Alpha-Arbutin would be redundant with Nanowhite and Delentigo.
- Feedback: It was clarified that Alpha-Arbutin is a more potent form than the regular Arbutin (Beta-Arbutin) often found in products like Nanowhite. Therefore, adding Alpha-Arbutin provides enhanced efficacy for whitening and addressing dark spots.
Anti-Aging & Firming Formula
Your proposed formula for wrinkles and firming included Matrixyl 3000, Argireline, Kinetin, Pep-coll, Pepha-tight, Apple stem cell, Sesaflash, Vitamin B3, Urea, and water.
- Feedback: It was pointed out that Pep-coll has similar functions to Matrixyl 3000, and Pepha-tight is similar to Sesaflash. It was recommended to choose only one from each pair to avoid redundancy. For your slightly dry skin, milder moisturizing alternatives to Urea were suggested, such as Moist72 or Vitamin B5, as Urea has an exfoliating effect which might not be desired.
Comparing Whitening Formulas
You asked whether the Vitamin C E Ferulic kit or your adjusted formula (Delentigo, Alpha-Arbutin, Vitamin C Ultra Fine, Glutathione, Bio yeast essence, Witch Hazel, water) would be more effective for whitening, dark spots, and pore tightening.
- Feedback: It was explained that direct comparison is difficult as ingredients perform differently on different skin types. A technical comparison highlighted that Vitamin C (in the kit) offers whitening, anti-oxidant, and collagen boosting benefits, while your formula focuses on whitening (Delentigo, Alpha-Arbutin, Vitamin C Ultra Fine, Glutathione) with skin conditioning (Bio yeast essence) and pore tightening (Witch Hazel). The Vitamin C E Ferulic kit also provides anti-oxidant benefits from Vitamin E and Ferulic Acid.
Adjusted Whitening Formula & pH
Regarding your adjusted whitening formula with Vitamin C Ultra Fine and Glutathione, feedback was given on the potential pH level.
- Feedback: It was noted that this formula would likely have a low pH (around 3.5) due to the Vitamin C. It was advised to remove Bio yeast essence as it would lose its quality and effectiveness at this low pH, while the other ingredients can tolerate acidic conditions.
You also asked if a pH of 3.5 would cause skin irritation.
- Feedback: It was explained that a pH of 3.5 is generally acceptable for cosmetic products, including AHA/BHA formulas, and is within regulatory limits. It was stated that an acidic pH like 3.5 is preferable to a high alkaline pH (8 or above), which can damage skin cells.
ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000)
Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate)
Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
Vitamin C E Ferulic
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) (Ultra-Fine)
Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopherol)
Glycopure™ (Glycolic Acid (AHA) Powder)
Alpha Arbutin (China, Powder, Enzymatic Synthesis)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide, Switzerland)
Alpha Arbutin (China, Crystal Form)
Lactic Acid (AHA) Neutralized (Deodorized)
Lactic Acid (AHA) 90% (ordinary grade - smells)