Skincare Formulation: Mask & Serum for Brightening, Hydration, and Actives
Question
I need advice on formulating skincare products for brightening and hydration, suitable for combination skin.
Specifically, I'm looking for a formula for a face mask to reduce dullness, brighten, hydrate, and suit combination skin.
For a serum, I have a base formula:
- Water 56%
- Liquid AA2G™ 33%
- Glucosamine 4%
- Vitamin B3 4%
- Alpha Arbutin 2%
- Phenoxyethanol 1%
I have the following questions about this serum formula:
- What is the expected pH of this formula, and does it need adjustment?
- Can I add the following ingredients to this serum base, and if so, at what percentage?
- Apple Stem Cell Extract (AppleCell™ Powder)
- Azelaic Acid 10% (Liquid Azelaic™)
- Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8)
- Alpha Bisabolol (Bisabolol)
- Repair Activator (Bifida Ferment Lysate)
- Homeostatine
- If multiple ingredients can be added, should I combine them all into one serum or separate them into different products?
- How can I achieve a serum texture similar to SK-II essence?
Answer
Skincare Formulation Advice: Mask and Serum for Brightening and Hydration
Here is some advice on creating skincare formulas for brightening and hydration, suitable for combination skin, based on your questions.
Face Mask for Brightening and Hydration
For a face mask to reduce dullness, brighten, hydrate, and suit combination skin, you can use a base that helps absorb excess oil while providing beneficial actives. A clay-based mask or a jelly mask could work well.
Example Mask Formula (using Green Clay base):
- Green Clay: 10-30% (adjust based on desired thickness and oil absorption)
- Water: q.s. to 100%
- Yeast Radiance: 3% (for brightening and radiance)
- Safe-B3 (Vitamin B3): 4% (for brightening, reducing redness, and hydration)
- GlucoBright (Acetyl Glucosamine): 4% (for brightening and hydration)
- MOIST24: 5% (for long-lasting hydration and texture)
- Preservative (e.g., Phenoxyethanol): 0.5-1%
Instructions: Mix Green Clay with water to form a paste. Separately, dissolve the water-soluble actives (Yeast Radiance, Safe-B3, GlucoBright, MOIST24, Phenoxyethanol) in the remaining water. Combine the two phases and mix thoroughly until smooth. Apply to face, let dry partially (for clay), and rinse off. Adjust clay and water percentages for desired consistency.
Alternatively, you could use a ready-made base like Hydro Jelly Mask powder or Water Sleeping Mask Base and add the desired active ingredients.
Serum Formulation Questions
Regarding your proposed serum formula and questions about adding ingredients:
Your base formula:
- Water 56%
- Liquid AA2G™ 33%
- Glucosamine 4%
- Vitamin B3 4%
- Alpha Arbutin 2%
- Phenoxyethanol 1%
pH Adjustment
Based on the information, this formula will likely have a slightly acidic pH (around 6). For personal use, this pH is generally acceptable, especially if used within about 3 months. If producing commercially, it is recommended to adjust the pH to the range of 6.5-6.8 for better stability of Liquid AA2G™ over a longer shelf life.
Adjusting the Formula with Additional Ingredients
You asked about adding Apple Stem Cell, Azelaic Acid 10%, Argireline, and Alpha Bisabolol, as well as Repair Activator and Homeostatine.
- Apple Stem Cell Extract (AppleCell™ Powder): This is water-soluble and can be added to your serum formula at a rate of 0.5-5% (manufacturer recommends 3-5%). It helps nourish skin cells and slow aging.
- Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™): This is a water-soluble form (Potassium azeloyl diglycinate) and can be used at 5-10% (10% is effective for brightening, reducing dark spots, and controlling oil). It is compatible with your formula and helps with brightening and reducing oiliness/acne.
- Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8): This peptide is water-soluble and used for reducing expression lines. It can be added at 3-10%. It is compatible with your formula within the recommended pH range.
- Alpha Bisabolol (Bisabolol): This ingredient is oil-soluble. Your current serum formula is water-based and does not contain an oil phase or emulsifier. Therefore, Alpha Bisabolol cannot be incorporated into this specific formula. It would require a different type of formulation (e.g., an emulsion/cream).
- Repair Activator (Bifida Ferment Lysate): This ingredient is water-soluble and can be added at 5-100% (the staff suggested 5-10%). It helps repair skin DNA damage. It can be added to your serum formula.
- Homeostatine: I could not find information on a product named "Homeostatine" in our database.
Combining vs. Separating Serums
Given that Apple Stem Cell Extract, Liquid Azelaic™, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline), and Repair Activator are all water-soluble and compatible with the pH range of your base formula, you can combine these ingredients into a single serum. This would create a powerful multi-functional serum addressing brightening, hydration, anti-aging (wrinkles), and skin repair.
Alpha Bisabolol, being oil-soluble, would need to be in a separate product, likely a cream or lotion that contains an oil phase and emulsifier.
Achieving SK-II Essence Texture
The texture of a serum or essence is determined by the base ingredients, thickeners, and humectants used. While adding ingredients like MOIST24 can contribute to a pleasant feel and appearance, achieving a texture exactly like SK-II essence might require specific formulation techniques and ingredients not detailed here. Your current formula is water-based, which is a good starting point for an essence-like texture.
In summary, you can create a potent combined serum with Liquid AA2G, Glucosamine, Vitamin B3, Alpha Arbutin, Apple Stem Cell Extract, Liquid Azelaic™, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, and Repair Activator. Remember to add heat-sensitive ingredients like peptides and extracts in the final cooling phase (below 40°C) and check the final pH.
Related Products Mentioned
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
Green Clay
MOIST24