Skincare Formulation Review and Mixing Instructions (Salicylic Acid Gel, ANR Serum, Stretch Mark Formula)
Question
I would like to review and get mixing instructions for several skincare formulas, considering my dry, sensitive skin with some acne and wrinkles, and also ask about a new heat-free formula for stretch marks.
Gel Salicylic Acid: I proposed the following formula and experienced issues with the texture being too liquid and lumpy:
- Salicylic Acid EZ™: 20%
- Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite™: 5%
- Pro Polymer: 1%
- Distilled Water: Remaining percentage
Could you please review this formula and provide the correct mixing procedure?
Estee Lauder ANR Simple Version: I have the following formula and would like confirmation and mixing steps.
- beta glucan (Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract): 5%
- Repair Activator: 10%
- Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite™: 3%
- Double Hyaluron Liquid: 10%
- Glycerin (Vegetable): 5%
- Pro Polymer: 1%
- Phenoxyethanol (Optiphen): 1%
- Distilled Water: Remaining percentage
Can I use Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (Pitera) instead of Distilled Water in this formula?
SkinTight Toner: What are your thoughts on this toner formula for my skin type?
Heat-Free Body Stretch Mark Formula: Could you suggest a formula for body stretch marks that does not require heating during mixing?
Answer
Skincare Formulation Review and Mixing Instructions
Thank you for providing your formulas and questions. Based on your skin type (dry, sensitive, with some acne and wrinkles) and the feedback from the staff, here is a review of your proposed formulas and detailed mixing instructions.
1. Gel Salicylic Acid Formula
You experienced issues with the texture of your Salicylic Acid gel. The staff correctly identified that the concentration of Salicylic Acid EZ™ should not exceed 10%. The mixing problem likely occurred because the thickener (Pro Polymer) needs to be properly dispersed in the water before adding other ingredients.
Here is the corrected formula and detailed mixing steps:
Corrected Formula:
- Salicylic Acid EZ™: 10%
- Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite™: 2-3% (Staff recommended reducing from 5%)
- Pro Polymer: 1%
- Distilled Water: Remaining percentage
Detailed Mixing Instructions:
- Measure the required amount of Distilled Water.
- Slowly add the Pro Polymer to the water while stirring or using a high-speed mixer (like a homogenizer or stick blender). Mix thoroughly until a smooth gel is formed with no lumps. This step is crucial for the gel texture.
- In a separate container, measure the Salicylic Acid EZ™ and Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite™.
- Add the mixture from step 3 to the gel base from step 2.
- Stir or mix well until all ingredients are completely dissolved and the mixture is uniform.
2. Estee Lauder ANR Simple Version Formula
The staff confirmed that this formula can be mixed. They suggested replacing Phenoxyethanol with Mild Preserved Eco (1%) for sensitive skin and optionally using a mix of Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (Pitera) (15-20%) and Distilled Water for the water phase, and adding Safe-B3 (5%) for skin barrier support.
Here is the formula incorporating the staff's suggestions and detailed mixing steps:
Recommended Formula (with staff suggestions):
- Beta Glucan (Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract): 5%
- Repair Activator: 10%
- Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite™: 3%
- Double Hyaluron Liquid: 10%
- Glycerin (Vegetable): 5%
- Pro Polymer: 1%
- Mild Preserved Eco: 1% (Recommended preservative)
- Safe-B3 (Niacinamide): 5% (Optional, for skin barrier)
- Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (Pitera): 15-20% (Optional, replaces part of water)
- Distilled Water: Remaining percentage
Detailed Mixing Instructions:
- Measure the required amount of the water phase (Distilled Water, or a mix of Distilled Water and Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate if using).
- Add Beta Glucan, Repair Activator, Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite™, Double Hyaluron Liquid, Glycerin (Vegetable), Mild Preserved Eco, and Safe-B3 (if using) to the water phase.
- Stir or mix until all ingredients are dissolved and evenly dispersed.
- Slowly add the Pro Polymer to the mixture while stirring or using a high-speed mixer. Mix thoroughly until a smooth gel is formed with no lumps.
3. SkinTight Toner Formula
For your sensitive skin, the staff advised against using the SkinTight Toner formula with a high concentration of DMAE (15%) due to potential irritation. The first formula (ANR Simple Version) contains ingredients that help with skin firmness and anti-aging, which should address some of the concerns this toner aimed for. Therefore, we recommend focusing on the ANR formula and will not provide mixing instructions for the SkinTight Toner.
4. Heat-Free Body Stretch Mark Formula
You requested a heat-free formula for body stretch marks. While traditional formulas often use ingredients requiring heat, we can create a beneficial serum or light lotion using cold-processable ingredients known for skin repair, hydration, and improving elasticity.
Here is a proposed heat-free formula:
Heat-Free Stretch Mark Serum/Lotion:
- Distilled Water: 74%
- Pro Polymer: 1%
- Glycerin (Vegetable): 5%
- Double Hyaluron Liquid: 5%
- Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite™: 3%
- Safe-B3 (Niacinamide): 5%
- Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%): 3%
- Pep-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5): 2%
- MercapFlex™: 1%
- Mild Preserved Eco: 1%
Detailed Mixing Instructions:
- Measure the required amount of Distilled Water.
- Slowly add the Pro Polymer to the water while stirring or using a high-speed mixer until a smooth gel is formed.
- Add Glycerin (Vegetable), Double Hyaluron Liquid, Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite™, Safe-B3 (Niacinamide), Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%), Pep-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5), MercapFlex™, and Mild Preserved Eco to the gel base.
- Stir or mix well until all ingredients are completely dissolved and the mixture is uniform.
Remember to always perform a patch test before applying any new formulation to a large area of skin.
Related Products Mentioned
Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Glycerin (USP/Food Grade)
Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker)
Double Hyaluron Liquid
Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite™
Salicylic Acid EZ™ (ชนิดละลายน้ำ)
Purified Water, TDS Limit 1PPM)