Skincare Formulation Review: Serum/Cream/Lotion with Actives & Preservatives

ถามโดย: at.leonidas.37 เมื่อ: December 19, 2013 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I want to make a skincare product with the following ingredients to help with skin tightening, smoothness, whitening, and pore reduction:

  • Matrixyl 3000 8%
  • DMAE 4%
  • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) 5%
  • Glucosamine (N-acetyl- D) 4%
  • Witch Hazel 30%
  • Light Cream Maker 5%
  • Bronidoxl
  • DMDM Hydantoin
  • Water

Is this formula okay? What texture would it have?

I also purchased the following ingredients to make lotion:

  • Sodium Polyacrylate
  • Dicaprylyl Ether
  • Mineral oil 70
  • Propylene Glycol
  • DMDM Hydantoin
  • Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Are these ingredients suitable for making lotion?

คำตอบ

Formulation Review and Recommendations

Based on the ingredients and the feedback you've already received in the conversation:

  • Formula Type: Your proposed formula does not contain an oil phase (like natural oils, esters, or mineral oil). Therefore, it cannot form a true cream. With the ingredients listed, it would likely result in a gel or serum consistency, depending on the thickener used.
  • Light Cream Maker: As noted in the previous reply, using Light Cream Maker at 5% is too high for its recommended usage (typically 1-1.5%). This would make the product excessively thick and potentially unstable. If you want a gel or serum, you should reduce the percentage of Light Cream Maker significantly, or consider using a different gelling agent suitable for water-based formulas. If you truly want a cream, you must add an oil phase and adjust the emulsifier (Light Cream Maker) accordingly.
  • Active Ingredient Concentrations:

    • Matrixyl 3000: Your proposed 8% is higher than the typical recommended usage rate (often 3-5%). While higher concentrations might offer increased efficacy, it's generally recommended to start within the suggested range (e.g., 3%) and observe results before increasing.
    • DMAE: Your proposed 4% is within the general usage range (1-10%), but the product information for DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid recommends 3% and notes that using above 5% may cause skin irritation or a sticky feeling. For sensitive skin, even 4% might be irritating. It's advisable to start at a lower concentration (like 3%) and test for skin tolerance. Using the Liquid DMAE is recommended as it is pH-adjusted.
    • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): Your proposed 5% is a good, effective concentration for the desired benefits (whitening, pore reduction, barrier support). The Safe-B3™ type is high purity and well-tolerated at this level.
    • Glucosamine (N-acetyl- D): Your proposed 4% is within the recommended range (1-8%) and works well with Vitamin B3 for whitening and improving skin texture.
    • Witch Hazel: Your proposed 30% is within the recommended range (10-100%) for pore tightening.
  • Preservatives: You mentioned Bronidoxl and DMDM Hydantoin. As advised previously, Bronidoxl should not be used as it is an outdated and potentially harmful preservative. DMDM Hydantoin is also a formaldehyde-releasing preservative and is not recommended due to safety concerns and restrictions in some regions. You should use a modern, broad-spectrum preservative system at the manufacturer's recommended usage rate to ensure product safety and stability.

Purchased Ingredients Review

Regarding the ingredients you purchased for making lotion:

  • Sodium Polyacrylate: This is a common thickener and stabilizer, often used in gel or cream formulations. It is generally suitable for cosmetic use.
  • Dicaprylyl Ether: This is a light, non-greasy emollient that can help improve the spreadability and feel of lotions. It is suitable for cosmetic use.
  • Mineral Oil 70: Mineral oil is a widely used emollient that helps to moisturize the skin and prevent water loss. It is suitable for lotion formulations. The "70" likely refers to its viscosity.
  • Propylene Glycol: This is a humectant and solvent, suitable for use in lotions to help retain moisture and dissolve ingredients.
  • DMDM Hydantoin: As mentioned above, this preservative is not recommended due to safety concerns. Please do not use it.
  • Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate: This is an effective emulsifier, often used in combination with other emulsifiers to create stable cream and lotion formulations. It is suitable for cosmetic use.

For your lotion formulation, Sodium Polyacrylate, Dicaprylyl Ether, Mineral oil 70, Propylene Glycol, and Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate are suitable ingredients (excluding DMDM Hydantoin). You would need to combine the oil-soluble ingredients (Dicaprylyl Ether, Mineral Oil) with water and use Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (and potentially Sodium Polyacrylate, depending on the specific type) as emulsifiers to create a stable lotion. Remember to use a safe, modern preservative instead of DMDM Hydantoin.

Summary of Recommendations

  1. Original Formula: Adjust the formula to be a gel/serum by significantly reducing Light Cream Maker (to 1-1.5% or replace with a different gelling agent) or add an oil phase to make it a true cream. Consider reducing Matrixyl 3000 and DMAE concentrations to the lower end of the recommended ranges (e.g., 3% for both) to start, especially if you have sensitive skin.
  2. Preservatives: Do not use Bronidoxl or DMDM Hydantoin. Choose a safe, broad-spectrum cosmetic preservative and use it at the recommended concentration.
  3. Purchased Ingredients: The ingredients Sodium Polyacrylate, Dicaprylyl Ether, Mineral oil 70, Propylene Glycol, and Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate are suitable for making a lotion. Do not use DMDM Hydantoin. Ensure you use a safe preservative.

To achieve your goals of skin tightening, smoothness, whitening, and pore reduction, the active ingredients you selected (Matrixyl 3000, DMAE, Vitamin B3, Glucosamine, Witch Hazel) are appropriate. The key is to formulate them in a stable and safe base with appropriate concentrations and a reliable preservative system.


Regarding your question about ordering, I do not have information about specific shipping schedules. You would need to check the website or contact customer service directly for details on when your order would be shipped if placed tomorrow.


Regarding liking the page, if you mean on Facebook, I'm glad you've already done that! Thank you.

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