Skincare Gel Formulation Feasibility and Mixing Order

Subject: Feedback on Cream Formulation

Hello,

Thank you for sharing your proposed cream formulation and the feedback you received. Based on the ingredients and percentages provided, along with general cosmetic formulation principles, here is an evaluation:

1. Feasibility:
Yes, the formulation you've listed is generally feasible to create as a gel-based product. The ingredients are commonly used in skincare.

2. Ingredient Compatibility:
The advice you received is correct; these ingredients are generally compatible with each other in this type of formulation.

3. Ingredient List and Comments:

• Licorice 1%: A good choice for anti-inflammatory and whitening effects.
• EGCG 5%: A potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory. Be aware that 5% is a high concentration and will likely give your product a noticeable brown color.
• Centella (Asiaticoside) 5%: Excellent for skin barrier and anti-inflammatory benefits. The suggestion to use Madecassoside is valid, as it's a key active compound in Centella often favored for targeted barrier repair and collagen support.
• Calendula 2%: Provides soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.
• N-Acetyl-D 4%: This likely refers to N-Acetyl Glucosamine (NAG). NAG is great for hydration, barrier support, and works well with Niacinamide for whitening. 4% is an effective level.
• Vit B3 2%: This is Niacinamide. 2% is effective for barrier support and anti-inflammatory action. You can increase it up to 5% for enhanced benefits (like reducing hyperpigmentation), but as noted, it might cause a warming sensation or flushing for some people, especially if the pH isn't ideal.
• Pro polymer 1%: This is your gelling agent. 1% is a common starting point. You can adjust this percentage (as suggested, e.g., 1.5%) to achieve your desired gel thickness.
• Phenoxyethanol 1%: A standard and effective broad-spectrum preservative at the maximum allowed concentration.
• Water ~80%: The base of your formulation.
• EDTA 0.1%: Adding a chelating agent like EDTA is a good suggestion, especially with EGCG. It helps chelate metal ions that can cause degradation, improving the stability of the formulation.

4. Mixing Order:
The suggested mixing order is logical and appropriate for creating a gel:

1. Hydrate the polymer in water to form the gel base. Allowing it to rest (e.g., refrigerating) helps ensure full hydration and a smooth texture.
2. Add and dissolve powdered ingredients into the gel.
3. Gradually add liquid ingredients, mixing well. Adding sensitive extracts like EGCG and Calendula later is reasonable.
4. Add the preservative last.

5. Additional Suggestions:

• pH Adjustment: This is crucial! You will need to measure and adjust the final pH of your formulation. Many of these ingredients (Niacinamide, NAG) are most stable and effective in a slightly acidic to neutral range (e.g., pH 5.0-6.5). The polymer might also require neutralization. Use a suitable acid (like Citric Acid solution) or base (like Sodium Hydroxide solution) to adjust.
• Solubility: Ensure all powdered ingredients are fully dissolved in the water/gel phase. Gentle warming might help, but avoid high heat.
• Stability Testing: While the ingredients are compatible, the long-term stability (color, viscosity, efficacy) should ideally be monitored, as EGCG can still degrade over time.
• Sensory: Be prepared for the brown color from EGCG.

Overall, the formulation looks promising and aligns with your goals. The advice you received provides a good foundation. Focusing on pH adjustment will be key to optimizing the final product.