Skincare Ingredients and Formulation for Oily Skin, Large Pores, and Wrinkles
คำถาม
I have oily facial skin, which produces a lot of oil even in cold weather. I have clogged pores, large pores, and some fine lines. My skin doesn't feel dry after washing, retaining some moisture, but I often use scrubs because I have many blackheads.
I would like advice on:
- What ingredients should I use and what ingredients should I avoid for my skin type (oily, large pores, wrinkles, clogged pores, dullness/dark spots)?
- Can I add ingredients like Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8) and Leuphasyl (Pentapeptide-18) to a finished serum or cream base?
- Can I modify a ready-to-use gel serum (specifically, the one containing Vitamin C (SAP), Glucosamine (N-Acetyl-D), Alpha-Arbutin, Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide), Hyaluronic Acid, Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) in a Double Hyaluronic Gel base) into a toner by simply adding water, Witch Hazel, and Willow Bark Extract?
คำตอบ
Skincare Recommendations for Oily Skin, Large Pores, Dullness, and Fine Lines
Based on your skin concerns (oily skin, large pores, dullness, fine lines, occasional acne) and your goals (smaller pores, wrinkle prevention, brighter skin, no clogged pores), here are some recommendations regarding the formula you proposed and general ingredient advice.
1. Suitability of the Proposed Ready-to-Use Formula
The ready-to-use formula you mentioned contains several excellent ingredients:
- Vitamin C (SAP): Great for brightening and antioxidant protection.
- Glucosamine (N-Acetyl-D): Helps with brightening and skin barrier function.
- Alpha-Arbutin: Effective for reducing dark spots and promoting even skin tone.
- Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): Highly beneficial for oily skin, helping to reduce oiliness, improve pore appearance, strengthen the skin barrier, and offer anti-aging and brightening effects.
- Hyaluronic Acid: Provides hydration, which is important even for oily skin to maintain balance.
- Vitamin B5 (Panthenol): Soothing and moisturizing.
While these ingredients are beneficial, the formula might not be optimally suited for your specific skin type and concerns, particularly regarding the oily texture and large pores. The combination of a gel base (Double Hyaluronic Gel) and a high concentration of Vitamin B5 (5%) might feel too heavy or contribute to the feeling of oiliness, especially in cold/air-conditioned environments where your skin tends to produce more oil. While Niacinamide helps with pores, the overall texture might not be ideal for minimizing their appearance on oily skin.
For your skin type, focusing on ingredients that specifically target oil control and pore appearance in lighter textures would be more effective.
2. Adding Argireline and Leuphasyl Later
Yes, you can add peptides like Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline) and Pentapeptide-18 (Leuphasyl) to a serum or cream base after it's made, especially if you want to use a separate product for nighttime. Peptides are generally lightweight and water-soluble, so they typically do not make a product feel significantly heavier.
How to Mix:
- Ensure the base product (serum or cream) has cooled down if it was heated during preparation (below 40°C is recommended for Acetyl Hexapeptide-8).
- Measure the desired amount of Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Pentapeptide-18 according to the supplier's recommended usage rate (typically 3-10% for both).
- Add the peptides to your base product.
- Gently stir or mix until evenly distributed. Avoid vigorous mixing that could introduce air bubbles.
- Store the final product as recommended for the peptides (e.g., refrigerate Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Pentapeptide-18 at 4-8°C for long-term storage).
These peptides work by targeting muscle contractions that cause expression lines, making them suitable for addressing your fine lines.
3. Modifying the Ready-to-Use Formula into a Toner
It is not recommended to modify the ready-to-use gel serum into a toner by simply adding water, Witch Hazel, and Willow Bark Extract.
- Stability Issues: Diluting a finished formula and adding new ingredients will likely compromise its stability, potentially leading to separation, changes in texture, or reduced effectiveness.
- Preservation: Adding water requires proper preservation to prevent microbial growth. The original preservative in the gel may not be sufficient for the diluted formula.
- Efficacy: The concentrations of the original active ingredients will be significantly reduced upon dilution, making them less effective.
Instead, it is better to create a separate toner formulation specifically designed for your needs.
Recommended Toner Ingredients for Oily Skin and Large Pores:
To create a toner focused on pore tightening and oil control, consider using:
- Witch Hazel (Alcohol-Free): A natural astringent that helps tighten pores.
- Willow Bark Extract: Contains natural Salicylic Acid (BHA), which helps exfoliate the skin, clear pores, and reduce inflammation. It is water-soluble and gentler than synthetic Salicylic Acid.
- Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): Excellent for reducing oiliness and improving the appearance of enlarged pores.
- Water-soluble Salicylic Acid (BHA): Ingredients like Willow Bark Extract or other water-soluble BHA forms can help with exfoliation and clearing clogged pores, which contributes to the appearance of smaller pores.
Mix these active ingredients into a suitable toner base (primarily water or Witch Hazel distillate) at recommended usage rates and ensure proper preservation and pH adjustment for stability and efficacy.
Regarding your question about Witch Hazel and Willow Bark Extract availability, based on the search results, these ingredients appear to be available.
General Ingredient Recommendations for Your Skin
For your skin type and concerns, focus on ingredients that help manage oil, reduce pore appearance, brighten, and provide anti-aging benefits without being too heavy or causing clogged pores:
- For Oil Control & Pores: Niacinamide, Zinc PCA, Salicylic Acid (BHA) or Willow Bark Extract.
- For Brightening & Dullness: Vitamin C (stable forms like SAP), Alpha-Arbutin, Niacinamide, Acetyl Glucosamine.
- For Anti-Aging & Fine Lines: Peptides (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Pentapeptide-18), Retinoids (Retinol, or natural alternatives like Bakuchiol - start with low concentrations and introduce gradually), Niacinamide.
- For Gentle Exfoliation: Instead of harsh physical scrubs or strong peels, consider chemical exfoliants like Salicylic Acid (BHA) or Willow Bark Extract, which are effective for oily skin and pores. AHAs like Glycolic Acid can also be used cautiously for texture and brightness, ensuring the pH is appropriate.
- Hydration: Use lightweight hydrators like Hyaluronic Acid (lower molecular weights can penetrate deeper, while higher molecular weights provide surface hydration) in non-greasy formulations.
Ensure your cleansing routine is gentle to avoid stripping the skin, which can lead to increased oil production. Using too many products or harsh treatments can disrupt the skin barrier and worsen issues like enlarged pores and sensitivity.
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Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule, 1M Daltons)
Hyaluronic Acid (Small Molecule, 8-20K Daltons)
Panthenol (Vitamin B5, DL-Panthenol, Powder)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
Salicylic Acid (BHA, Pharma Grade)
Zinc PCA
Glycopure™ (Glycolic Acid (AHA) Powder)
Willow Bark Extract (Natural Salicylic Acid)
Hyaluronic Acid (Large Molecule, 2M Daltons)
Pure-Bakuchiol™ (Natural Retinol, 99% Pure, USA)
Retinol (100% Pure Powder)