Formulation Review

Your formula incorporates a wide range of active ingredients targeting multiple skin concerns, which is good. However, there are a few points to consider regarding ingredient compatibility, potential redundancy, concentration levels, and achieving the desired texture.

Potential Issues and Considerations:

• High Exfoliant Concentration: The formula includes Natural PHA (Gluconolactone) at 10%, Complex Salicylic Acid at 5%, and Pumpkin Renew™ at 5%. This is a very high combined concentration of exfoliating ingredients (potentially 20% total, depending on the active percentage of Complex Salicylic Acid and Pumpkin Renew™). While PHAs are generally gentler than AHAs/BHAs, 10% Gluconolactone is still a significant amount. 5% Salicylic Acid is also quite high for a leave-on product, as BHA is typically used at 0.5-2%. Using multiple strong exfoliants at high percentages in a product applied 3-4 times a week and left on overnight could lead to significant skin irritation, redness, dryness, peeling, and increased sensitivity.
• Emulsification System: You are using Moist Cream Maker™ (an O/W emulsifier) and SiliSolve Plus™ (a W/Si or W/O emulsifier). Using both types of emulsifiers in the same formula can sometimes lead to instability or unexpected texture results. The percentage of Moist Cream Maker™ (1.5%) seems low for creating a "thick cream" texture, especially if there is a substantial oil phase (which isn't fully detailed but implied by a cream texture).
• Reservoir-Tech Listing: Reservoir-Tech is listed twice in the formula (items 19 and 26), each at 3%, totaling 6%. Please confirm if this is intentional or a typo. If intentional, ensure the product can be used at this total concentration and understand its specific function and compatibility with other ingredients at this level.
• Texture vs. Ingredients: While Xanthan Gum at 0.5% will provide thickening, the combination of a potentially low O/W emulsifier percentage, high water phase (from Rose Water and other water-soluble ingredients), and 10% Cyclopentasiloxane (a volatile silicone that provides slip but not richness) might result in a lighter, more serum-like or lotion-like texture rather than a truly "เข้มข้น" (thick/concentrated) cream. To achieve a thick cream, you might need a higher percentage of the O/W emulsifier and/or the addition of more traditional emollients/fatty alcohols in the oil phase.
• Penetration Enhancers: Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) and Reservoir-Tech are included to enhance penetration. While beneficial for delivering actives, using them with such high concentrations of exfoliants could potentially drive the exfoliants deeper and increase the risk of irritation.
• Redundancy in Exfoliation: Having three different exfoliants (PHA, BHA derivative, Enzyme) might be more than necessary and contributes to the high potential for irritation.

Strengths of the Formula:

• Excellent Moisturizing Blend: The formula includes a strong combination of humectants and hydrators like Urea, MOIST24, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Super-HYA™, and Ectoine. This helps to counteract some of the potential dryness from exfoliation.
• Good Anti-Aging/Repair Actives: Ultrasomes Micrococcus Lysate, Repair Activator™ (Bifida Ferment Lysate), and Pure-Adenosine™ are good additions for targeting signs of aging and supporting skin repair.
• Soothing Ingredient: Natural Bisabolol provides soothing benefits, which is important in a formula with high exfoliant levels.
• Antioxidant: Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chloride (EUK-134) provides antioxidant protection.

Recommendations for Improvement:

1. Adjust Exfoliant Levels: To make the formula safer and less irritating for regular use (3-4 times/week), significantly reduce the concentration of the exfoliants. Consider using only one or two primary exfoliants at lower, effective concentrations (e.g., 5-8% Gluconolactone and 1-2% Complex Salicylic Acid, or choose one and keep Pumpkin Renew™).
2. Review Emulsifier System and Oil Phase: To achieve a stable, thick cream texture, simplify the emulsifier system (e.g., stick to Moist Cream Maker™) and increase its concentration if needed based on the oil phase percentage. You may also need to add more traditional cream-building ingredients like fatty alcohols (e.g., Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol) or richer emollients.
3. Verify Reservoir-Tech Usage: Confirm the intended total percentage of Reservoir-Tech. If 6% is correct, ensure it is compatible and necessary at this level.
4. Consider pH Adjustment: Ensure the final pH of the formula is appropriate for the chosen exfoliants to be effective, but also consider a pH that minimizes irritation, especially given the high concentrations.
5. Monitor for Irritation: If you proceed with a version of this formula, strongly recommend patch testing and starting with less frequent application (e.g., once or twice a week) to assess skin tolerance before increasing frequency.

In summary, while the formula contains many beneficial ingredients, the high concentration and combination of multiple exfoliants are likely to cause significant irritation. Adjusting the exfoliant levels and potentially the emulsifier/oil phase for texture and stability would improve the formula's safety and user experience.