Analysis of Your Sleeping Mask Formula and Formulation Questions

Thank you for reaching out with your questions about formulating your own sleeping mask. It's great that you are exploring the ingredients! Let's break down your questions:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein and REGU®-AGE

It is correct that Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein is an ingredient found in REGU®-AGE. REGU®-AGE is a specialized active ingredient designed to help reduce the appearance of dark circles and puffiness around the eyes, as well as strengthen the delicate skin in that area. It contains Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein, and Oxido Reductases. So, if a product lists Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein, it is possible they are using REGU®-AGE or another ingredient that contains soybean protein for its skin-benefiting properties.

Alternatives for C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a common emollient (skin softening agent) that is oil-free and helps dissolve other ingredients, like sunscreen actives. The direct equivalent available is LipidSoft™ C1215, which has the same INCI name.

Other emollients can potentially be used as alternatives, depending on the desired feel and properties of your final product. Some options include:

• C15-19 Alkane: A natural-origin, lightweight emollient with a dry, silicone-like feel and good spreadability.
• LipidSoft™ Cyclo: An emollient designed to replace Cyclomethicone, offering a light, smooth feel that evaporates quickly, suitable if you want to avoid silicones.

The best alternative will depend on the overall formula and the specific feel you are trying to achieve.

Issues with Gelling Agents (Light Cream Maker™ and Pro Polymer™)

It sounds like you are experiencing clumping when trying to incorporate Light Cream Maker™ and Pro Polymer™ into your formulas. This is a common issue with powder or liquid polymer-based thickeners and gelling agents if not dispersed correctly.

Here's why it happens and how to prevent it:

• Improper Dispersion: These polymers need to hydrate and swell evenly. If you add them too quickly or don't stir adequately while adding, the outer part of the powder/liquid can hydrate and form a barrier, preventing the inside from getting wet, resulting in clumps.
• Electrolytes: Both Light Cream Maker™ and Pro Polymer™ can be sensitive to electrolytes (ingredients containing Sodium, Magnesium, Calcium, Potassium, often found in extracts, salts, or certain active ingredients). High levels of electrolytes can reduce their thickening power and cause issues with texture, potentially leading to clumping or thinning.

To avoid clumping:

1. Add Slowly with Good Agitation: When adding the gelling agent to the water phase, sprinkle the powder very slowly over the surface of the water while stirring continuously and vigorously. For liquid forms like Light Cream Maker™, add it gradually while stirring.
2. Pre-disperse (for Pro Polymer™): If your formula contains glycerin or propylene glycol (above 5%), you can try mixing the Pro Polymer™ powder with the glycerin/propylene glycol first to create a slurry before adding it to the water phase. This helps disperse the powder more evenly.
3. Allow Hydration Time: Especially with Pro Polymer™, it can take time to fully hydrate and thicken. After initial mixing, let the mixture sit for a while (even up to a day, as suggested for Pro Polymer™) and then stir or blend again to achieve a smooth gel.
4. Consider Electrolytes: If your formula contains electrolytes, they should ideally be added after the gel structure has formed. If adding electrolytes causes thinning, you might need to use a higher concentration of the gelling agent or add the electrolyte-containing ingredients very slowly while stirring.

Regarding adding more water: Adding more water to a formula that has already clumped can sometimes help the gelling agent hydrate and dissolve the clumps by reducing the overall concentration and providing more liquid for hydration. However, as you suspected, adding extra water will dilute the entire formula. This means the concentration of all other ingredients, including your active ingredients, will be lower than intended, which can indeed reduce their effectiveness.

It's best to try and prevent clumping through proper mixing techniques and formulation adjustments (like managing electrolytes) rather than relying on adding water later, which dilutes your active ingredients.