Solubility and Usage of Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) in Anhydrous Oil Bases

Asked by: Anonymous On: December 22, 2025 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Can the following ingredients be used in an anhydrous oil-based formulation?

  • Dihydroxyacetone (DHA)
  • Encapsulated Dihydroxyacetone (DHA, Timed-Release)

Are there specific methods to incorporate them into oil, or are they strictly water-soluble? If they are not compatible with oil, what are the recommended formulation types and stability requirements (such as pH and temperature) for these ingredients?

Answer

Regarding your question about using Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) in an anhydrous oil base:

  1. Solubility Limitation: Both Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) and Encapsulated Dihydroxyacetone (DHA, Timed-Release) available in our database are water-soluble. They do not dissolve in oil.
  2. Anhydrous Oil Base: Because they are water-soluble, they cannot be used in a 100% oil-based (anhydrous) formula. If added to oil, the powder (DHA) or the liquid (Encapsulated DHA) will not disperse or dissolve properly, leading to a gritty texture and uneven tanning results on the skin.
  3. Recommended Formulation: To create a self-tanning product with an oil-like feel, it is recommended to formulate it as an Emulsion (Cream/Lotion) or a Two-Phase system where the DHA is dissolved in the water phase.
  4. Key Stability Factors:
    • pH Level: DHA is most stable at a pH of 3.0 - 5.5 (ideally 4.0).
    • Temperature: Avoid heating above 40°C, as heat accelerates DHA degradation.
    • Synergy: For better results, DHA is often used with EasyTan™ (Erythrulose), which is also water-soluble, to provide a more natural tan tone and reduce skin dryness.

In summary, standard DHA and the encapsulated version currently available are not suitable for anhydrous oil bases. They require an aqueous (water) component to function correctly.