Polysorbate Usage and Comparison

Here are the answers to your questions regarding Polysorbates and related ingredients:

1. Polysorbate 20 vs. Polysorbate 80: These differ primarily in their HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) values. They are often used as co-emulsifiers in emulsion formulations where the overall HLB of the emulsifier system is calculated to match the oil phase. Polysorbate 20 has a higher HLB than Polysorbate 80, making it more water-soluble and better suited for oil-in-water emulsions or solubilizing oils in water. Polysorbate 80 is also used in oil-in-water emulsions and as a solubilizer. The choice depends on the specific oil phase and the desired emulsion type or solubilization requirement, often determined through HLB calculations.

2. Usage Percentage in Toner: The recommended range of 1-20% for Polysorbates is broad because their function and required amount vary greatly depending on the specific formula. For a toner containing oil and fragrance, the necessary percentage of Polysorbate (or another solubilizer) depends on the amount and type of oil/fragrance you need to solubilize to achieve a clear solution. Using high percentages (e.g., 15-20% or more) to solubilize a significant amount of oil (like 3-5%) can often result in a sticky or unpleasant skin feel. For a toner with a small oil phase, starting with a lower percentage of solubilizer (e.g., 5-7% for 1-2% oil) is often recommended to maintain a light texture. The exact starting point would require testing with your specific formula and ingredients.

3. Polysorbate vs. Propylene Glycol / Butylene Glycol: These ingredients have different primary functions:

   • Polysorbates are primarily emulsifiers and solubilizers. They help to disperse oil and water phases evenly or to dissolve small amounts of oil/fragrance in water to create a clear solution. Polysorbates are not considered emollients.
   • Propylene Glycol and Butylene Glycol are primarily solvents and emollients. They are used to dissolve other ingredients (both water-soluble and some slightly oil-soluble) and to provide moisture and a smooth feel to the skin. While they can contribute to formula stability by helping ingredients stay dissolved, they do not emulsify oil and water in the way Polysorbates do.

4. When to Use Which:

   • Use Polysorbates (or other solubilizers like Flora Solve) when you need to mix an oil phase (like fragrance or carrier oils) into a water-based product (like a toner or serum) and keep it stable, especially if you want a clear product.
   • Use Propylene Glycol or Butylene Glycol when you need to dissolve ingredients that don't easily dissolve in water alone, or when you want to add humectancy and emollience to the product.

5. Flora Solve vs. Polysorbate for Fragrance/Oil: Both can solubilize oil and fragrance in water, but they differ in performance and feel:

   • Flora Solve is specifically developed for solubilizing fragrance and oils in water, often achieving better clarity and stability, especially with higher concentrations of oil/fragrance. It generally provides a lighter, less sticky skin feel compared to Polysorbate when used at the concentrations needed for solubilization. It is typically more expensive.
   • Polysorbate can be used for solubilizing smaller amounts of fragrance or oil. However, achieving clarity with higher oil loads might require a high percentage of Polysorbate, which can result in a sticky texture.

6. Solubilizing 3-5% Oil with Flora Solve: Solubilizing 3-5% oil to create a clear toner is challenging and often requires a very high percentage of solubilizer (like 15-20% or more of Flora Solve or Polysorbate), which can make the product feel sticky or heavy. Using a lower oil percentage (e.g., 1-2%) with a moderate amount of solubilizer (e.g., 5-7% of Flora Solve or Flora Solve Clear) is often more practical for achieving a clear toner with a pleasant, light texture. Consider using effective oils like Bisabolol, which is effective at a low concentration (around 1%) and is itself an oil.