Solubilizing Protec™ OX and Protec™ UV in Oil-Free Ethyl Ascorbic Acid Serum
Question
I want to make an oil-free serum with Ethyl Ascorbic acid.
However, I need to include Protec™ OX and Protec™ UV in the formula to help protect Vitamin C.
Do I need to add oil to the formula to dissolve these two ingredients? And what should I use as a solubilizer?
I have Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20) and PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil. Can these be used? Or are these two only suitable for solubilizing Fragrance?
Answer
Oil-Free Serum with Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Protec™ OX, and Protec™ UV
To incorporate oil-soluble ingredients like Protec™ OX and Protec™ UV into an oil-free serum containing Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, you do not need to add oil to the formula. Instead, you will need to use a suitable solubilizer.
- Protec™ OX and Protec™ UV are oil-soluble and require a solubilizing agent to be dispersed evenly in a water-based formula.
- Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a water-soluble form of Vitamin C and will dissolve directly in the water phase.
Regarding the solubilizers you have:
- Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20) is mainly water-soluble but has limited solubility in oil. It might not be strong enough to fully solubilize Protec™ OX and Protec™ UV in an oil-free system and could lead to a cloudy product.
- PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is a suitable solubilizer for dispersing oil-soluble ingredients in water-based formulas. It is designed for this application.
Therefore, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is the more appropriate choice among the two you mentioned for solubilizing Protec™ OX and Protec™ UV in your oil-free serum.
How to incorporate:
- Mix Protec™ OX and Protec™ UV with PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil until they are fully dispersed or dissolved.
- Slowly add this mixture to your water phase while stirring continuously until clear and uniform.
- Add Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to the water phase, as it is water-soluble.
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