Spot Corrector Gel Texture Issue with Glycolic Acid and Azelaic Acid

Question

I recently tested a simple solution of Glycolic Acid 10% in Distilled Water (90%), adjusted to pH 3.5 with Sodium Bicarbonate. I will be testing this tonight.

However, my main question is regarding a proposed Spot Corrector formula I am developing:

Glycolic Acid 10%
Azelaic Acid 10%
Activated Resorcinol 1%
Pro Polymer 1%
LipidSoft 2%
Phenoxyethanol 1%

I am aiming for a thick gel texture, but using only 1% Pro Polymer does not seem sufficient, especially given the high concentration of Azelaic Acid (10%). How can I adjust the formula to achieve the desired thick gel consistency?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Hello Khun jayjaydecoupage,

Thank you for the update on testing the 10% Glycolic Acid solution. Please observe your skin's reaction closely. If you feel excessive stinging, redness, or irritation, you should rinse it off immediately.

Regarding the Spot Corrector formula you proposed (Glycolic Acid 10%, Azelaic Acid 10%, Activated Resorcinol 1%, Pro Polymer 1%, LipidSoft 2%, Phenoxyethanol 1%), it is a formula with ingredients that are quite effective for dark spots, melasma, and freckles. Glycolic Acid [ID 660], Azelaic Acid [ID 224], and Activated Resorcinol [ID 493] are all substances commonly used to reduce the appearance of these marks.

However, as Khun mersncs advised, using only 1% Pro Polymer [ID 234] may not be sufficient to create the thick gel texture you desire, especially with Azelaic Acid [ID 224] at a high concentration of 10%. Azelaic Acid is an electrolyte that affects the viscosity of the gel. We recommend trying to increase the amount of Pro Polymer [ID 234] to 2% or experimenting with the amount until you achieve the desired thickness.

This formula is quite concentrated. We recommend testing it on a small spot first to see how your skin reacts. If there is no severe irritation, you can then use it to spot treat the problem areas (melasma, freckles, dark spots), avoiding the delicate skin around the eyes.

In addition to the formula you proposed, the Staff team also suggested other approaches, such as using Activated Resorcinol [ID 493] with Pentylene Glycol [ID 886] or Trans-White [ID 260] with PE-1 Aqua [ID 856] as active ingredients for a Spot Treatment formula. You can consider these as alternative options.

Regardless of which formula you choose, the most important thing in treating melasma, freckles, and dark spots is sun protection. You should apply sunscreen with a high SPF that protects against both UVA/UVB daily, even on days when you are not exposed to strong sunlight, to prevent existing marks from darkening and to prevent new marks from forming.

We hope this information is helpful. If you have any further questions, please feel free to ask.