Spots/Separation in Water-Based Gel Formula
Question
Hello Staff,
I have created a formula as follows:
- DI Water 95.2%
- Glycerine 1%
- Cyclomethicone 1%
- Vit E 0.5%
- Any Gel 1.5%
- Care 0.3%
- Laurocapram 0.5%
- Ferulic Acid 1%
Starting from June 5th, today I observed spots appearing in the base.
Could you please advise if any ingredients are incompatible? I would appreciate your guidance. Thank you.
Answer
Based on the ingredients in your formula and their properties, the spots you are seeing are likely due to incompatibility between the water-based gel phase and some of the oil-soluble or water-insoluble ingredients.
Here's a breakdown of the potential issues:
- Ferulic Acid: The description for Pure-Ferulic Acid™ indicates it is not soluble in water and requires solvents like Ethoxydiglycol or ethanol. Since your formula is over 95% water and does not appear to contain a sufficient solvent for Ferulic Acid, it is likely precipitating out of the solution, causing the spots.
- Cyclomethicone and Vitamin E: Cyclopentasiloxane (Cyclomethicone) and Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate) are oil-soluble ingredients. Your formula is a water-based gel using AnyGel™ (Dehydroxanthan Gum). Oil-soluble ingredients and silicones do not naturally mix with water-based gels without a suitable emulsifier or solubilizer to bridge the two phases. The 1% Cyclomethicone and 0.5% Vitamin E are likely separating from the water gel, forming dispersed droplets or spots.
- Laurocapram (Water Soluble): The Laurocapram you are using is the water-soluble type, which is effective for enhancing the penetration of water-soluble ingredients. It is not designed to help solubilize or emulsify oil-soluble ingredients or silicones in a water base.
To resolve the spotting issue and create a stable formula, you need to address the solubility and compatibility problems:
- For Ferulic Acid: You need to properly dissolve the Ferulic Acid before adding it to the water phase. This can be done by dissolving it in a suitable solvent like Ethoxydiglycol. Alternatively, consider using a pre-solubilized form of Ferulic Acid, such as Micromul™ Ferulic Acid, which is designed to be easily incorporated into water-based formulas.
- For Cyclomethicone and Vitamin E: You need to add an appropriate emulsifier or solubilizer to your formula that can effectively disperse or emulsify the oil/silicone phase (containing Cyclomethicone and Vitamin E) within the water gel base. The choice of emulsifier will depend on the desired texture and stability of the final product.
Without incorporating these steps to ensure all ingredients are properly dissolved or dispersed in the base, separation and spotting will likely continue to occur.
Related Products Mentioned
Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate)
Pure-Ferulic Acid™
Glycerin (USP/Food Grade)
AnyGel™