Stability and Concentration of Vitamin C Derivatives (Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid) in Serum
Asked by: i.am.abundant8
On: October 29, 2016
Product Type:
Cosmetics
Question
Regarding Vitamin C derivatives:
- For Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate:
- If mixed with Vitamin E and Ferulic Acid, will it help increase stability?
- If produced as a serum and stored at room temperature, how long will it remain stable?
- For Ethyl Ascorbic Acid:
- Can it be used at concentrations higher than 5%? Specifically, if used at 10-15%, will the effectiveness increase?
- What is the maximum percentage of this Vitamin C derivative that the skin can absorb?
Answer
Regarding your questions about Vitamin C derivatives:
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (ID 499):
- We do not have specific information on whether combining it with Vitamin E (ID 65) and Ferulic Acid (ID 131) will further increase its stability.
- However, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is inherently more stable than L-Ascorbic Acid (ID 133/134). For a serum formulation stored at room temperature, it is relatively stable, even at temperatures around 30-35°C. To maintain stability, it is crucial to protect the product from sun and heat exposure. Using opaque bottles (like ceramic) and airless pumps is highly recommended.
Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (ID 833):
- Yes, it can be used at concentrations higher than 5%, such as 10-15%.
- However, based on our experience, using it at 10-15% did not show a noticeable increase in effectiveness compared to using it at 5%. This observation is similar to testing different concentrations of AA2G (ID 265).
- The provided information does not specify the maximum percentage of Ethyl Ascorbic Acid that the skin can absorb.
