Stability and Solubility of MSH White™ in a Formulation at pH 5.3

Asked by: sales On: June 16, 2025 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Could you please review the following formula and advise on the stability of MSH White™ (Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine) at the final pH of 5.3?

Formula:

  • Agua desionizada: 61.0% w/w
  • Glicerina: 3.0% w/w
  • Xanthan Gum: 0.7% w/w
  • Sclerotium Gum: 0.2% w/w
  • Ume Extract: 0.5% w/w
  • Tranexamic Acid: 3.0% w/w
  • Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate: 5.0% w/w
  • Niacinamida: 4.0% w/w
  • 4-Butylresorcinol: 0.3% w/w
  • MSH White™ (Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine): 1.0% w/w
  • Pure-EGCG™ (Epigallocatechin-3-gallate): 0.5% w/w
  • ActiveRelease™ Pterostilbene: 0.2% w/w
  • Ectoine: 0.5% w/w
  • Pomegranate Extract: 1.0% w/w
  • CocoSilk™ (Coco-Caprylate/Caprate): 2.0% w/w
  • Squalane: 2.0% w/w
  • Baobab Seed Oil: 1.0% w/w
  • Tocopherol (Vitamina E): 0.5% w/w
  • Phytic Acid: 0.3% w/w
  • EDTA Disódico: 0.05% w/w
  • L-Arginina (solución 10 %): qs pH
  • Phenoxyethanol: 1.0% w/w
  • Caprylyl Glycol: 0.5% w/w
  • Sodium Dehydroacetate: 0.3% w/w
  • Leuconostoc/Radish Ferment Filtrate: 0.5% w/w
  • Gluconolactona + Sodium Benzoate (Geogard): 0.25% + 0.25% w/w
  • Rosemary Leaf Extract: 0.2% w/w

The final pH of the formula is 5.3.

Answer

Based on the product information for MSH White™ (Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine), it is soluble in water only when the pH is adjusted to be higher than 8. At acidic pH levels, such as 5.3, MSH White™ is not soluble in the water phase.

To ensure stability and proper incorporation of MSH White™ in your formula, you should dissolve it in the oil phase of your formulation using heat (at least 60°C, preferably 80°C as mentioned in the description for dissolving in oil). Alternatively, if incorporating into the water phase, the pH of the water phase must be adjusted to above 8 before adding MSH White™.

Given your formula's final pH of 5.3, incorporating MSH White™ directly into the water phase without pH adjustment or into the final mixture might lead to solubility and stability issues. It is recommended to dissolve MSH White™ in the oil phase with heat before combining phases.

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