Sticky Serum Formulation and How to Fix It
Question
My serum formulation has a sticky, glue-like texture. What ingredients are causing this, and how can I fix it? The formulation includes:
- Xanthan Gum (1%)
- Pepha Tight (5%)
- Hyaluronic Acid Nano Molecule (1%)
- Hydrolyzed Collagen (3%)
- Oligo GGF (8%)
- Glucosamine
Answer
Based on the ingredients and their concentrations in your serum formulation, several components are likely contributing to the sticky, glue-like texture:
- Xanthan Gum (1%): This is a very common thickener, but at 1%, it can often create a texture that feels quite sticky or even slightly slimy, especially if not properly hydrated or combined with other ingredients that improve slip. This is a primary suspect for the stickiness.
- Pepha Tight (5%): This ingredient contains Pullulan, a polysaccharide known for its film-forming properties, which provide a tightening sensation. Film-formers can often leave a sticky or tacky residue on the skin as they dry.
- Hyaluronic Acid Nano Molecule (1%): Hyaluronic acid, even at 1% and in a lower molecular weight form (Nano Molecule), is a powerful humectant and can contribute significantly to the tackiness and stickiness of a serum.
- Hydrolyzed Collagen (3%): Proteins and peptides, like hydrolyzed collagen, can also add to the sticky or tacky feel of a formulation, especially at higher percentages.
- Oligo GGF (8%): Depending on the exact nature of this ingredient (likely a peptide or complex active), it could also contribute to stickiness, similar to collagen and Pepha Tight.
- Overall Concentration: The total concentration of these functional ingredients (Xanthan Gum, Pepha Tight, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Oligo GGF, Glucosamine) is quite high. High solid content from various polymers, humectants, and proteins will inherently increase the likelihood of a sticky or tacky feel.
How to fix the sticky texture:
As suggested by the staff member, the most straightforward way to reduce the stickiness of a finished serum that is too concentrated is to dilute it by adding more water (preferably distilled or deionized water). Start by adding a small amount (e.g., 10-20% of the current volume) and mix thoroughly. Test the texture. You may need to repeat this process until you achieve a texture you are happy with. Keep in mind that dilution will also reduce the concentration of all active ingredients, which might slightly lessen their efficacy, but it's the best way to salvage the existing batch.
For future formulations, consider these adjustments:
- Reduce Xanthan Gum: Lowering the percentage of Xanthan Gum (e.g., to 0.2-0.5%) or switching to a different thickener known for better texture (like certain grades of Carbomer, Acrylates Copolymer, or other gums/polymers) could significantly reduce stickiness.
- Adjust other sticky ingredients: If possible, slightly reduce the percentages of Pepha Tight, Hydrolyzed Collagen, or Hyaluronic Acid in future batches. However, this should be done carefully as these ingredients are likely responsible for the desired "tightening" effect.
- Incorporate texture modifiers: Ingredients like certain esters or light silicones (if compatible with your formulation goals) can help improve slip and reduce tackiness, but adding these would require reformulating and testing for stability and compatibility.
Given that you like the efficacy of the current batch, diluting it with water is the recommended approach to improve the texture without completely discarding the product.