Sticky shampoo formulation with Gluta-Clean™ and PQ7

Asked by: rawisangsri On: September 24, 2021 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Seeking guidance on a shampoo formulation primarily using Gluta-Clean™ (Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate). I have experimented with a formula containing Gluta-Clean™ 15-20%, Cocamidopropyl Betaine 10%, and PQ7 3%, but the hair feels sticky. How should I adjust this formula?

Answer

Shampoo Formulation Guide with Gluta-Clean™

You've experienced stickiness in your shampoo formula using Gluta-Clean™, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, and PQ7. This stickiness is likely due to the conditioning polymer, Polyquaternium-7 (PQ7), especially at a concentration of 3%. While conditioning polymers are great for improving hair feel and manageability, using too much can lead to residue and stickiness.

To address this, the primary adjustment should be to reduce the concentration of the conditioning polymer.

Here's a suggested approach and a sample formula structure:

Adjusting Your Formula

  1. Reduce Conditioning Polymer (PQ7): Lower the percentage of PQ7 significantly. Start with a much lower concentration, perhaps 0.1% to 1%, and test the feel. You can gradually increase it if needed, but avoid going back up to 3% if that caused stickiness.
  2. Consider Alternative Conditioning Polymers: Other conditioning polymers like Poly-Conditioner 47 (Polyquaternium-47) are also compatible with anionic surfactants like Gluta-Clean™ and can provide good conditioning properties without excessive build-up or stickiness when used at appropriate levels (typically 0.1-3%).
  3. Adjust Surfactant Ratios: Your current ratio of Gluta-Clean™ (15-20%) and Cocamidopropyl Betaine (10%) is reasonable for cleansing and foam. Gluta-Clean™ is a gentle primary surfactant, and Cocamidopropyl Betaine acts as a good secondary surfactant and foam booster.
  4. Thickening: Gluta-Clean™ requires specific thickeners. Options include Xanthan Gum, SugarThick™, or EasyThick™. Choose one that provides the desired viscosity and clarity for your formula.
  5. pH Adjustment: Gluta-Clean™ has a high pH (8.0-10.0). It is crucial to adjust the final formula's pH to a skin-friendly range (typically 5.5-6.5 for shampoo) using an acid like Citric Acid. This also helps optimize the performance and feel of the surfactants and conditioning polymer.

Sample Revised Shampoo Formula Structure

  • Water: q.s. to 100%
  • Gluta-Clean™ (Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate): 15-20%
  • Cocamidopropyl Betaine: 5-10%
  • Conditioning Polymer (e.g., Polyquaternium-7 or Poly-Conditioner 47): 0.1-1%
  • Thickener (e.g., Xanthan Gum, SugarThick™, or EasyThick™): As needed for desired viscosity (follow product specific usage rates)
  • Preservative: As needed (follow supplier recommendations)
  • Fragrance/Color: As needed
  • Citric Acid: As needed to adjust pH to 5.5-6.5

Instructions:

  1. Combine water and surfactants (Gluta-Clean™ and Cocamidopropyl Betaine). Mix gently to avoid excessive foam.
  2. Add the conditioning polymer and mix until dispersed.
  3. Add the chosen thickener and mix until the desired viscosity is achieved.
  4. Add preservative, fragrance, and color (if using).
  5. Crucially, adjust the pH using a Citric Acid solution. Add dropwise, mixing well, and measure the pH until it is in the target range of 5.5-6.5.

By reducing the conditioning polymer and ensuring the pH is correctly adjusted, you should be able to significantly reduce the sticky feeling in your shampoo.