Cream Formulation for Stretch Marks and Scars: Mixing Guide

Hello,

I understand the issues you encountered when trying to make the cream formulation. Achieving a stable and smooth cream texture with a high oil content and ingredients that dissolve in different phases (oil and water) requires proper mixing techniques. The separation and formation of yellow particles you observed indicate an issue with emulsification. Using only Light Cream Maker might not be sufficient to stabilize such a high oil load (15% Rose Hip Oil + 15% Shea Butter = 30%), especially with ingredients like Alpha Lipoic Acid.

Based on your original formula and the ingredients you have, we can adjust the mixing method to improve the texture and stability of your cream. The problem likely stems from insufficient emulsification power for the high oil load and possibly insufficient mixing speed/shear during the combining phase.

Revised Formula (Example)

Here is a suggested revised formula incorporating Glyceryl Stearate and Cetyl Alcohol to help create a more stable cream texture:

• Rose Hip Oil: 15%
• Alpha Lipoic Acid: 3-5%
• Acetyl L-Carnitine: 5%
• Shea Butter (Organic–Refined): 15%
• Glyceryl Stearate: 4%
• Cetyl Alcohol: 2%
• Light Cream Maker: 1% (You can keep this for texture or try omitting it if you prefer to simplify)
• Phenoxyethanol: 1%
• Water: Remaining percentage to reach 100%

Mixing Instructions (Hot Process)

1. Water Phase: Weigh the calculated amount of water. Heat the water to approximately 70-75°C. Dissolve the Acetyl L-Carnitine in the hot water, stirring until fully dissolved. Maintain this temperature.
2. Oil Phase: In a separate container, weigh the Rose Hip Oil, Shea Butter, Glyceryl Stearate, and Cetyl Alcohol. Heat this mixture to approximately 70-75°C until the Shea Butter and solid ingredients are completely melted and clear. It is recommended to "Heat and Hold" at this temperature for about 15-20 minutes to ensure the Shea Butter is fully melted and less likely to recrystallize. Once the oil phase is clear, carefully add the Alpha Lipoic Acid to the hot oil phase. Stir or use a small blender to help dissolve the Alpha Lipoic Acid into the oil. If you are including Light Cream Maker, add it to the oil phase now and mix.
3. Combine Phases: Slowly pour the heated oil phase into the heated water phase while mixing vigorously with a high-shear mixer (such as a small immersion blender or electric whisk). Continuous, high-speed mixing at this stage is crucial for the emulsifiers to effectively combine the oil and water into a stable emulsion. Continue mixing until the mixture starts to thicken and takes on a creamy or lotion-like appearance.
4. Cool Down Phase: Remove from heat. Continue stirring or blending intermittently as the cream cools down. Once the temperature drops below 40-60°C, add the Phenoxyethanol and mix thoroughly.
5. Refine Texture: If the texture is not completely smooth or you notice small particles, you can use a high-speed blender again once the cream has cooled to room temperature to further refine the emulsion.

Suitable Ingredients You Have for Lotion/Cream Texture:

• Glyceryl Stearate and Cetyl Alcohol: These are effective emulsifiers and thickeners suitable for formulas with high oil content. They work well together and require heating.
• Light Cream Maker: An easy-to-use emulsifier that doesn't strictly require heat, but may require higher usage or sufficient shear for high oil loads.
• Polysorbate 20: Primarily a solubilizer or emulsifier for low oil percentages (typically up to 5-10%). Less ideal as the sole emulsifier for a 30% oil formula.

Ingredients You Have That Are Not Primary Emulsifiers for This Formula:

• Hyaluronic Acid Standard + Nano: A humectant and water-phase gelling agent, not an emulsifier.
• Silicone gel, Pro Polymer, Xanthan Gum: These are thickeners or gelling agents for the water or silicone phase and do not act as primary emulsifiers.
• Glyceryl (Vegetable): Likely Glycerin, a humectant, not an emulsifier or thickener for this purpose.

Additional Notes:

• The "Heat and Hold" step for Shea Butter at 70°C for 15-20 minutes is a good practice to ensure it stays melted and integrates properly.
• High-shear mixing during the combining phase is critical for successful emulsification. A small electric whisk or immersion blender is more effective than hand stirring or a coffee grinder.
• It is normal for creams containing high amounts of natural butters like Shea Butter to become firmer in cooler temperatures and softer when warm. However, separation into distinct layers or persistent particles indicates an unstable emulsion.

By following the Hot Process method with the suggested emulsifiers and using adequate mixing shear, you should be able to achieve a stable and smooth lotion or cream texture.

I hope this helps!