Substitute for Laurocapram (Water Soluble) in Essence Formula
Question
I am developing an essence (น้ำตบ) formulation using the following ingredients and percentages:
Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (aka. Pitera) 53%
Aqua 37%
Pro Polymer 0.1%
Wrinkle-Fill™ (Acetyl L-Tyrosine) 2%
Wakame Extract (Brown Sea Weed) 3%
Tetrapeptide-21 3%
Japanese Cedar (Cryptomeria Japonica Bud Extract) 1%
Rosa Hybrid Cell Extract (HybridCell™) 2%
French Pine Bark Extract 25 (Liquid) 2%
WaterLock™ 1%
WhiteCumin™ 2x 0.2%
Laurocapram (Water Soluble) 2%
Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus) 1% (of the mixture excluding Pitera)
MySkinRecipes informed me that Laurocapram (Water Soluble) is out of stock. I would like to know which of the following alternatives would be better:
- Nano Gold (Nanocarrier, Colloidal Gold 1-50nm)
- VersaMoist™ (PEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether)
- Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI)
I am unsure about DMI because I understand it has an odor and might require adding fragrance or an odor masking agent, which I would prefer to avoid if possible. Please advise.
Answer
Substituting Laurocapram (Water Soluble) in Your Essence Formula
You are looking for a substitute for Laurocapram (Water Soluble) in your essence formulation. Laurocapram (Water Soluble) acts as a penetration enhancer, helping other ingredients absorb into the skin.
Let's compare the potential alternatives you mentioned:
Nano Gold (Nanocarrier, Colloidal Gold): Based on the product information, this ingredient does not appear to function as a penetration enhancer in the same way as Laurocapram, DMI, or VersaMoist™. It is not a direct substitute for the role of Laurocapram in your formula.
VersaMoist™ (PEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether): This ingredient is described as enhancing skin penetration and is soluble in both water and oil, helping to carry ingredients into the skin. It also provides moisturizing benefits and can improve the texture of the formula, reducing stickiness. The product description does not indicate a noticeable odor.
Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI): DMI is a well-established solvent and penetration enhancer, particularly effective for water-soluble ingredients. It is suitable for your water-based formula. However, it is noted to have an ether-like smell, which may require the addition of fragrance or an odor-masking agent to your formula.
Recommendation:
Both VersaMoist™ and Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) can serve as penetration enhancers in your essence. However, considering your preference to avoid adding perfume or odor maskers, VersaMoist™ appears to be the more suitable substitute.
VersaMoist™ offers penetration enhancement along with potential texture and moisturizing benefits, without the reported odor issue associated with DMI. If you choose VersaMoist™, the recommended usage rate is 0.5-3%. If you were to use DMI, the recommended rate for transporting ingredients is around 3%, but you would need to address its odor.
