Substitute Ingredients for a Light, Clear, Moisturizing Gel (Neutrogena Water Lock Type)

Question

I have a formula from Neutrogena Water Lock and would like to create a light, clear gel texture similar to it. The original formula includes the following ingredients:

Water, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Dimethicone Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer Phenoxyethanol, Polyacrylamide, Cetearyl Olivate, Dimethiconol, Sorbitan Olivate C13-14 Isoparaffin, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Chlorphenesin, Carbomer Laureth-7, Sodium Hyaluronate Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide Fragrance, C12-14 Pareth 12 CI 42090.

I need recommendations for alternative ingredients, especially for the part that is not available for sale, to achieve a light, clear gel texture that focuses on moisture retention and a dewy/hydrated feel.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Creating a Light, Clear, Moisturizing Gel

Based on the Neutrogena formula you provided, which features ingredients like Dimethicone, Glycerin, Carbomer, and Sodium Hyaluronate, the key to its light, clear, and moisturizing gel texture lies in the combination of gelling agents, humectants, and texture enhancers.

To create a similar light and clear gel with a focus on moisture retention, you can consider the following substitutes and additions:

Suggested Gelling Agents

To achieve a clear gel texture, you can use gelling agents that are suitable for water-based formulas:

AnyGel™: This water gelling agent (Dehydroxanthan Gum) creates a non-greasy gel texture that feels absorbed quickly, aligning well with a light gel feel. It also has good resistance to electrolytes.
Sepimax Zen: This thickener (Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6) is highly versatile and tolerant to salts and pH variations, making it suitable for creating clear gel textures.

Choose one of these gelling agents to form the base structure of your gel.

Suggested Moisturizing Ingredients

To enhance moisture retention and achieve a "dewy" or "ฉ่ำน้ำ" feel, incorporate humectants:

Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base: Since Sodium Hyaluronate is in the original formula, using a Hyaluronic Acid gel base is an excellent way to provide intense hydration with a light, non-greasy feel.
TransMoist™: This ingredient (PPG-24-Glycereth-24) helps moisturize the skin and improves the absorption of other ingredients, contributing to a hydrated feel.

Combining a gelling agent with moisturizing ingredients like Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base and TransMoist™ will help you achieve a texture and hydration profile similar to the Neutrogena product.

Texture Considerations

The original formula also contains various silicones (like Dimethicone and Dimethicone Crosspolymer) which contribute to the smooth, non-sticky feel. While achieving the exact silicone feel in a clear water-based gel can be challenging, the suggested gelling agents and moisturizing ingredients will help create a pleasant texture. Some silicone elastomers dispersed in water exist, but they might result in a milky white, rather than clear, gel.

Experiment with the usage rates of the chosen gelling agent and moisturizing ingredients to find the desired consistency and feel.