Adjusting Your BB Cushion Formula from Water-Capsule™ to Water-in-Oil EZ™

To switch from using Water-Capsule™ to Water-in-Oil EZ™ in your BB cushion formula, you will need to make several adjustments, primarily due to the differences in how these two water-in-oil emulsifiers function and are processed.

Here are the key points to consider and adjust:

1. Mixing Method: This is a crucial difference. With Water-Capsule™, you typically mix the oil phase into the water phase all at once. However, when using Water-in-Oil EZ™, you must add the water phase gradually into the oil phase while continuously stirring or blending. Adding the oil phase to the water phase will take much longer or may not emulsify properly.

2. Oil/Silicone Content: Water-in-Oil EZ™ can handle a higher proportion of oil and silicone (up to 35%) compared to Water-Capsule™ (up to 20%). If your current formula has a high oil or silicone content, Water-in-Oil EZ™ is better suited, and you might not need to reduce the oil phase percentage as much.

3. Electrolyte Compatibility: Water-in-Oil EZ™ is compatible with ingredients containing electrolytes (like DMAE or Sodium Lactate), whereas Water-Capsule™ is not and may fail to emulsify properly if electrolytes are present.

4. Thickness Adjustment: The method for controlling thickness differs. With Water-Capsule™, thickness can be adjusted by the blending speed and time. With Water-in-Oil EZ™, thickness is primarily controlled by:

   • The ratio of water to oil (higher water content generally results in a thicker formula).
   • Adding water-soluble thickeners (like Xanthan Gum) to the water phase before emulsification.
   • Adding oil-soluble thickeners (like Hectorite Gel) or wax to the oil phase.

5. Stability: For formulas using Water-in-Oil EZ™, it is recommended to add approximately 1% Magnesium Sulfate to the water phase to help improve stability and reduce the chance of separation.

6. Usage Rate: The recommended usage rate for Water-in-Oil EZ™ is typically 0.1-4%, with 1-2% being common for most formulas. Water-Capsule™ is used at 1-5%. You may need to experiment slightly with the percentage of Water-in-Oil EZ™ to achieve the desired texture and stability in your specific formula.

In summary, when substituting Water-Capsule™ with Water-in-Oil EZ™, pay close attention to the mixing procedure (add water to oil gradually), consider the total oil/silicone content and presence of electrolytes, adjust thickness using the methods suitable for Water-in-Oil EZ™, and include Magnesium Sulfate for enhanced stability.