Suggestions for Whitening Cream Formulation for Oily Skin

Question

I am developing a cream formulation for whitening and moisture, intended for slightly oily skin. My formula includes various whitening ingredients such as D-Arbutin, Tranexamic Acid, Sym-White™, N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine (GlucoBright™), 4MSK, MSH White Absorb™, Vitamin B3 (Safe-B3™), AminoSilk™, WhiteCumin™ 2x, Yeast Radiance™, and Licorice Extract. It also contains Vitamin E Acetate, Natto Gum, Mineral Oil, MatteSilica™ (at 5%), Satin Cream Maker™ (at 1%), Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, and Purified Water.

Could you please review this formula and provide suggestions, particularly regarding:

The suitability of using multiple whitening ingredients together?
The potential for skin irritation from ingredients like D-Arbutin, Tranexamic Acid, and Sym-White™?
Challenges with incorporating Sym-White™ (e.g., requiring a blender)?
Suitability for slightly oily skin, considering ingredients like Vitamin E Acetate and Natto Gum?
The expected texture, given MatteSilica™ at 5% and Satin Cream Maker™ at 1%?
The choice of Phenoxyethanol as a preservative?
Any recommendations for adjusting ingredient percentages or removing ingredients for better performance, reduced irritation, or suitability for oily skin?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Hello,

Thank you for sharing your cream formulation for whitening, moisture, and slightly oily skin, focusing on Sym White.

The staff has reviewed your proposed formula and provided the following suggestions:

Whitening Ingredients: The staff noted that the formula contains a high number of whitening ingredients. Some ingredients, such as D-Arbutin and Tranexamic Acid, can potentially cause skin irritation.
Sym-White™: While effective, Sym-White™ can also be irritating (though less so than the two mentioned above). It requires a blender for proper dispersion in the formula. If you do not have a blender, the staff recommends removing Sym-White™ as the other whitening ingredients are considered sufficient. If Sym-White™ is removed, Mineral Oil can also be removed.
For Oily Skin: The staff recommends removing Vitamin E Acetate and Natto Gum, as other ingredients in the formula provide adequate moisture for slightly oily skin.
Texture and Oil Absorption:
- MatteSilica™: The staff suggests starting with 2% initially (instead of 5%) and adjusting if needed for texture.
- Satin Cream Maker™: To achieve a soft cream texture with the number of ingredients used, the staff recommends increasing this to 2.0% (from 1%).
Preservative: The staff recommends using Mild Preserved Eco 1% or Phenoxyethanol SA 1% instead of Phenoxyethanol for potentially better safety.

Based on the staff's feedback, here is an example of an adjusted formula (assuming Sym-White™ and Mineral Oil are removed due to the blender requirement):

Disodium EDTA: 0.1%
N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine (GlucoBright™): 4%
4MSK: 3%
MSH White Absorb™: 5%
MatteSilica™: 2%
Vitamin B3 (Safe-B3™): 5%
AminoSilk™: 3%
WhiteCumin™ 2x: 3%
Yeast Radiance™: 3%
Licorice Extract: 0.5%
Satin Cream Maker™: 2%
Mild Preserved Eco (or Phenoxyethanol SA): 1%
Purified Water: 68.4%

These adjustments aim to create a formula that is less likely to cause irritation, is suitable for slightly oily skin, and has a good texture, while still providing effective whitening and clarity from the remaining active ingredients.