Suitable Emulsifier for Shea Butter Cream with Actives

To create a cream using Shea Butter as the oil phase and incorporating water-soluble actives like Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), Repair Activator, Matrixyl 3000, Argireline, and Hyaluronic Acid, you will need an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsifier.

Considering the heat and pH sensitivity of some of your active ingredients, especially L-Ascorbic Acid which requires a low pH (around 3.5-4.0) and cool temperatures, the formulation process will involve heating the oil phase (Shea Butter + emulsifier) and water phase (containing Hyaluronic Acid) separately, emulsifying, cooling the mixture, and then adding the heat-sensitive actives and adjusting the pH.

Based on the available options, two suitable emulsifiers for this type of cream are:

• Sucrose Cream Maker™: This is a natural-based, nonionic O/W emulsifier that is added to the oil phase. It is known for good compatibility with various ingredients.
• Emulsifying Wax 1000: A standard, reliable nonionic O/W emulsifier that is also added to the oil phase. It is widely used for stable cream formulations.

Both emulsifiers are capable of creating a stable cream with Shea Butter. When formulating, ensure that Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), Repair Activator, Matrixyl 3000, and Argireline are added during the cooling phase below their recommended temperatures (below 40°C, and specifically below 30°C for L-Ascorbic Acid). The final pH of the cream should be adjusted to 3.5-4.0 to maintain the stability and efficacy of L-Ascorbic Acid.