Suitable Oil Percentage and Formula Review for Brightening Cream

Hello! Thank you for taking the time to ask. I understand that starting to make your own cream for the first time can bring up many questions.

Let me answer your questions and provide some advice regarding the formula you are planning to try:

1. Suitable Percentage of Oil in Face/Body Cream Formulations

The amount of the oil phase in a cream formula is not fixed; it primarily depends on the desired product type and texture.

• For light lotions or thin creams, the oil phase might be around 5% - 15%.
• For medium to rich creams, the oil phase might be around 15% - 30% or more.

Your provided formula includes an oil phase (Coconut Oil) at 5%, which is quite low. This will result in a texture that is more like a light lotion or fluid rather than a heavy cream.

2. Review and Adjustment of Your Planned Formula (Focus on Brightening)

Your formula is a good starting point! It includes key ingredients for brightening, namely B3 (Niacinamide) and N-acetyl (N-acetylglucosamine), used at effective concentrations (4% each) that work synergistically.

However, there are some points you might consider adjusting to achieve a more stable cream texture with improved properties.

Your provided formula:

• coconut oil 5%
• Phenoxyethanol 1%
• light cream maker 1%
• vitamin E 1%
• B3 4%
• N-acetyl 4%
• H2O 84%

Suggestions for Improvement:

• Oil Phase: Coconut oil at 5% will result in a light texture. If you desire a richer cream texture, consider increasing the oil phase to 10-15%. You might also try using other oils that are lighter or less likely to clog pores than coconut oil, such as Jojoba Oil, Squalane, Grapeseed Oil, or a blend of oils.
• Emulsifier: "light cream maker" at 1% is quite vague. Each emulsifier has a different usage rate and must be chosen appropriately for the amount and type of oil in the formula. Using an insufficient or unsuitable emulsifier can cause the cream to separate or be unstable. You should specify the exact emulsifier name and check the usage rate recommended by the manufacturer.
• Humectants: This formula lacks humectants, which help draw moisture into the skin and improve the texture of the cream. I recommend adding Glycerin (around 3-5%) or Propanediol to the water phase.
• Thickeners/Stabilizers: Besides the emulsifier, adding a thickener to the water phase, such as Xanthan Gum (around 0.2-0.5%) or Carbomer, will help increase the viscosity of the cream, improve its body, and enhance emulsion stability, especially with ionic ingredients like Niacinamide at high percentages.
• pH Adjustment: Niacinamide and N-acetylglucosamine work well and are stable in the pH range of approximately 5-7. After mixing all ingredients, you should measure the pH of the cream and adjust it to the appropriate range (e.g., 5.5-6.5) using a pH adjuster like Citric Acid Solution or Sodium Hydroxide Solution. Controlling the pH is crucial for formula stability and the efficacy of the active ingredients.
• Preservative: Phenoxyethanol at 1% is a good preservative. However, sometimes it might need to be combined with other preservatives to provide broader coverage (against bacteria, yeast, and mold), depending on the specific preservative system you choose.

In Summary: Your initial formula has good ingredients for brightening, but the basic structure of the cream (oil phase, emulsifier, thickeners, humectants) is quite simple and might not be stable. I recommend studying more about different types of emulsifiers, thickeners, and the importance of pH adjustment in cream formulation.

Making cream requires experimentation and adjustment. Your first formula might not be perfect, but it's a great learning experience! Have fun making your cream!