Sulfate-Free Shampoo Formulation: Cleaning Performance and Thickening Options

Asked by: nutpaveec On: November 05, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am developing a sulfate-free shampoo formulation using the following ingredients:

  • Sodium Lauroamphoacetate (Mild-Wash) 10%
  • Cocamidopropyl Betaine 5%
  • Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine (Coco-Foam) 10%

I would like to know about its cleaning performance and how to thicken this formula inexpensively.

Answer

Sulfate-Free Shampoo Formula Assessment

Cleaning Performance

Your formula uses a combination of gentle, sulfate-free surfactants:

  • Sodium Lauroamphoacetate (Mild-Wash): This is a primary gentle cleansing agent. At 10%, it provides good cleaning power.
  • Cocamidopropyl Betaine: A co-surfactant that enhances foam and mildness.
  • Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine (Coco-Foam): Primarily a foam booster with lower cleaning efficiency, but it contributes to the overall lather.

The total concentration of surfactants (10% Mild-Wash + 5% Cocamidopropyl Betaine + 10% Coco-Foam = 25%) is adequate for effective cleaning in a shampoo formulation while remaining gentle, suitable for those sensitive to sulfates.

Thickening Options

For an inexpensive thickener, consider:

  • Sodium Chloride: This is a very common and cost-effective thickener for many surfactant systems, especially those containing amphoteric surfactants like Cocamidopropyl Betaine and Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine. Add it gradually (e.g., 0.5-1.5%) while stirring until the desired viscosity is reached.
  • Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC): This is another option that provides thickening and gel formation. It is a non-ionic thickener. Note that HEC typically requires heating to dissolve properly.

Alternative Approach

Using a Sulfate Free Shampoo Base is a simpler method. These bases are formulated to be complete sulfate-free cleansing systems that can often be easily thickened with Sodium Chloride.