Sulfate-Free Shampoo Formulation Guidance

Here is a review of your proposed formula and how to adjust it, especially regarding the substitution of the Sulfate Free Shampoo Base.

Formula Review and Adjustments

The staff's feedback on your original formula is helpful:

• SulFoam (Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate): This is the main cleaning agent. The staff recommends increasing its concentration from 10% to 15-25% for better cleansing performance.
• Cocamidopropyl Betaine: This primarily functions as a foam booster. The staff suggests reducing its concentration from 20% to 10%.
• Lanolin and Hydro Protein (Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein): These ingredients are less effective in rinse-off products like shampoo. If you wish to include them, the staff advises using them at a very low concentration, around 0.1%, mainly for marketing purposes rather than significant functional benefits after rinsing.
• Other ingredients like Glycerin, Poly-Conditioner Eco, SugarThick™, Fragrance, and Preservative are generally suitable for this type of formula at typical usage rates.

Substituting Sulfate Free Shampoo Base

Yes, you can effectively replace the Sulfate Free Shampoo Base by using a combination of Cocamidopropyl Betaine and SulFoam (Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate) as your primary surfactant system.

• Cocamidopropyl Betaine is an amphoteric surfactant that is gentle and provides good foam, enhancing the texture and feel of the shampoo. It has a pH range of 5.5-7.0 (at 10% concentration).
• SulFoam (Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate) is a gentle anionic surfactant that provides the main cleaning action and good foaming. It has a pH range of 5.5-6.5.

Based on the staff's recommendations, a suitable combined ratio when using these as the main surfactants would be SulFoam at 15-25% and Cocamidopropyl Betaine at 10%. This gives a total surfactant concentration of 25-35%, which is appropriate for a shampoo.

Regarding pH, SulFoam has a pH range of 5.5-6.5, and Cocamidopropyl Betaine is around 5.5-7.0. When combined, the resulting pH of your shampoo should naturally fall within or close to the ideal range for hair (typically pH 5-6). You should always check the final pH of your batch and adjust it if necessary using a dilute acid (like citric acid or lactic acid solution) to lower it, or a dilute base (like sodium hydroxide solution) to raise it, to ensure it is within the optimal range for hair health and product stability.

Recommended Formula Proportions (Example based on staff feedback)

Here is an example of your formula adjusted based on the staff's recommendations, assuming you reduce Lanolin and Hydro Protein:

1. SulFoam (Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate): 20% (within the 15-25% recommended range)
2. Cocamidopropyl Betaine: 10% (as recommended)
3. Glycerin: 5%
4. Lanolin: 0.1% (as recommended for rinse-off)
5. Hydro Protein: 0.1% (as recommended for rinse-off)
6. Poly-Conditioner Eco: 2%
7. SugarThick™: 2%
8. Fragrance: 2%
9. Preservative: 1%
10. Water (including butterfly pea water): Adjust to 100% total. In this example: 100 - (20+10+5+0.1+0.1+2+2+2+1) = 57.8%. So, Water would be approximately 57.8%.

• Note: The exact percentage of water will depend on the precise amounts of other ingredients used to reach 100%.*

Mixing Procedure

Here is a general mixing procedure for this type of sulfate-free shampoo:

1. Combine the water (including butterfly pea water) and Glycerin in a mixing vessel. Stir gently until the Glycerin is fully dissolved.
2. Slowly add SulFoam and Cocamidopropyl Betaine to the water mixture. Stir gently with a paddle or low-speed mixer to incorporate the surfactants without creating excessive foam. Continue stirring until the mixture is homogeneous.
3. Add Poly-Conditioner Eco and Hydro Protein (if using) and stir until fully dissolved.
4. Gradually add SugarThick™ while stirring slowly. Continue stirring until the desired viscosity is achieved. Gentle warming (50-60°C) can help SugarThick™ dissolve faster, but avoid high heat.
5. In a separate small container, mix the Fragrance with Lanolin (if using). Add this mixture to the main batch and stir until evenly dispersed.
6. Add the Preservative and stir until fully incorporated.
7. Check the pH of the final product using a pH meter or pH strips. If necessary, adjust the pH to the desired range (typically 5-6) using a dilute acid or base solution.
8. Allow the mixture to sit undisturbed for several hours or overnight to allow any trapped air bubbles to rise and dissipate before packaging.

This adjusted formula and procedure should help you create a sulfate-free shampoo with good cleaning and foaming properties, suitable for those sensitive to sulfates.