Sunscreen and Serum Formulation Questions
Question
I have questions regarding the following two formulations:
Sunscreen Formulation:
Ingredients:
- Titanium Dioxide nano liquid
- Zinc Oxide EasyDisperse
- lipid soft moist
- Phenonip
- Safe B3
- Allantoin
- Fragrance
- Satin Cream Maker
- beige Iron Oxide
- Silk Sericite Powder
- mineral oil
- Disodium EDTA
- Vit B5
- Water
Questions:
- To achieve SPF 50 PA+++, can I use Titanium Dioxide 20% and Zinc Oxide 5%?
- I want a light, smooth, slippery texture that doesn't feel too dry but leaves something coating the skin. How much Satin Cream Maker should I use?
- I want medium coverage with a light beige color. Are the ingredients used for coverage sufficient?
- Are the moisturizing ingredients in the formula sufficient? What percentage should I use?
- Is 1% of the preservative sufficient?
- Are the ingredients for longevity and irritation reduction sufficient?
- Is 65% water sufficient for mixing?
- Is this formula suitable for all skin types? I want to focus on normal to dry skin.
Serum Formulation:
Ingredients:
- DMAE
- Vit B5
- Safe B3
- Rosa Hybrid Cell Extract
- Grape Seed Extract
- Wrinkle Fill (L tyrosine)
- Tranexamic Acid
- Sym White
- Allantoin
- Sodium Lactate Plus
- Moist 24
- Grape Seed Oil
- Flax Seed Oil
- Phenonip
- mineral oil
- Disodium EDTA
- Light Cream Maker
- Fragrance
- Silk Sericite Powder
- Water
Questions:
- I want an all-in-one product that can be used both day and night.
- Are the moisturizing ingredients in the formula sufficient? What percentage should I use? I want to focus on normal to dry skin, age 35 and above. Are the active ingredients sufficient?
- Will any ingredients clog pores? I want to use it before bed.
- Is it better to use many active ingredients at low percentages or fewer ingredients at high percentages?
- Is 68% water sufficient for mixing?
- I want a serum texture. How much Light Cream Maker should I use?
- Are the ingredients for longevity and irritation reduction sufficient?
Thank you.
Answer
Sunscreen Formulation Analysis
Here is an analysis of your proposed sunscreen formulation:
SPF 50 PA+++: Achieving a specific SPF and PA level requires laboratory testing of the final formulation. However, using both Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide provides broad-spectrum protection against UVA and UVB rays. The proposed concentrations of 20% Titanium Dioxide and 5% Zinc Oxide are quite high and may be sufficient to reach SPF 50 PA+++, depending on the specific types and particle sizes of Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide used in your formula. It is crucial to use sunscreen-grade versions of these ingredients for effective UV protection.
Texture: The combination of Satin Cream Maker, LipidSoft Moist, and Mineral Oil is suitable for creating a light, smooth, and slippery texture with a coating feel, as you desire. Satin Cream Maker is an effective emulsifier and thickener for this type of texture. A usage rate of around 1-1.5% for Satin Cream Maker is a good starting point, which can be adjusted based on the total oil phase percentage and the desired viscosity. LipidSoft Moist and Mineral Oil will contribute to the emollient feel and spreadability.
Coverage: The inclusion of Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, beige Iron Oxide, and Silk Sericite Powder is appropriate for achieving medium coverage with a light beige tint. Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide provide physical coverage, while beige Iron Oxide adds the desired color. Silk Sericite Powder helps improve texture and provides natural coverage. The exact level of coverage will depend on the specific percentages of these powders in your final formula.
Moisturizers: Your formulation includes several excellent moisturizing ingredients: LipidSoft Moist, Safe B3 (Niacinamide), Allantoin, Vit B5 (Panthenol), and Mineral Oil. This combination should provide sufficient hydration for normal to dry skin. Recommended usage rates for these ingredients to maximize their moisturizing benefits are typically: Safe B3 (Niacinamide) at around 5%, Allantoin at 0.5%, Vit B5 (Panthenol) at 1-3%, LipidSoft Moist and Mineral Oil as part of your oil phase at levels appropriate for the desired feel and total oil content.
Preservative: Using 1% Phenonip is the recommended usage rate for this preservative blend and should provide sufficient protection against microbial growth in your formulation. However, it is always best practice to perform a challenge test on your final product to confirm its efficacy.
Stability and Irritation Reduction: Disodium EDTA is included to help with formula stability by chelating metal ions. Allantoin and Safe B3 (Niacinamide) are well-known for their irritation-reducing and soothing properties, which will help counteract potential irritation from other ingredients and make the formula suitable for sensitive skin.
Water Percentage: The water percentage (65%) is the remaining portion of your formula after accounting for all other ingredients. If the percentages of all other ingredients sum up to 35%, then 65% water is the correct amount to reach 100% of the formulation.
Suitability for Skin Types: Based on the moisturizing ingredients (LipidSoft Moist, Mineral Oil, Vit B5, Allantoin, Safe B3) and the use of physical sunscreens (Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide) which are generally well-tolerated, this formulation is well-suited for normal to dry skin types.
Serum Formulation Analysis
Here is an analysis of your proposed serum formulation:
All-in-one Day and Night Use: Your serum formulation contains a comprehensive blend of active ingredients targeting multiple skin concerns, including anti-aging (DMAE, Wrinkle Fill, Rosa Hybrid Cell Extract), brightening (Safe B3, Tranexamic Acid, Sym White), antioxidant protection (Grape Seed Extract, Sym White), and hydration (Vit B5, Safe B3, Allantoin, Sodium Lactate Plus, Moist 24, Grape Seed Oil, Flaxseed Oil, Mineral Oil). This makes it suitable for use both day and night. For daytime use, it is recommended to apply sunscreen afterward for comprehensive protection.
Moisturizers and Nutrients for Normal to Dry Skin (Age 35+): The formulation is rich in moisturizing and nourishing ingredients, making it suitable for normal to dry skin, especially for individuals aged 35 and above who may benefit from the anti-aging actives. To ensure sufficient moisturization, consider using the recommended usage rates for key ingredients such as Sodium Lactate Plus (1-5%), Moist 24 (5-8% for a strong moisturizing effect), Vit B5 (1-3%), Safe B3 (5%), and Allantoin (0.5%). The oils (Grape Seed Oil, Flaxseed Oil, Mineral Oil) will also contribute to skin conditioning and moisture retention. The active ingredients like DMAE (recommended 3%), Rosa Hybrid Cell Extract (recommended 2%), Grape Seed Extract (0.5-2%), Wrinkle Fill (1-2%), Tranexamic Acid (up to 3%), and Sym White (0.1-1.0%) are included at typical effective concentrations to provide their targeted benefits.
Pore Clogging: The potential for pore clogging (comedogenicity) depends on the overall formulation and individual skin sensitivity. While Mineral Oil can be a concern for some, LipidSoft Moist and Grape Seed Oil are generally considered less comedogenic. The serum is intended for night use, and many beneficial ingredients are included. If you are concerned about comedogenicity, you can adjust the percentages of the oils or consider alternative emollients. However, in a serum format, the concentration of oils might be lower than in a cream, potentially reducing the risk.
Concentration Strategy: Using a variety of beneficial ingredients at their recommended effective concentrations, rather than just a few at very high percentages, can provide a broader spectrum of benefits for the skin. This approach allows for targeting multiple concerns simultaneously, which is beneficial in an all-in-one serum. Ensure each active ingredient is used within its recommended range for optimal efficacy and safety.
Water Percentage: The water percentage (68%) is the balance of your formula. If the percentages of all other ingredients sum up to 32%, then 68% water is the correct amount to complete your formulation to 100%.
Texture: Light Cream Maker is suitable for creating a light, easily absorbed serum texture. To achieve a serum-like viscosity (lighter than a cream), you would typically use Light Cream Maker at a lower percentage, likely in the range of 0.5-1%, adjusting based on the total oil phase and desired thickness.
Stability and Irritation Reduction: Disodium EDTA helps stabilize the formula by chelating metal ions. Phenonip provides effective preservation. Allantoin, Safe B3 (Niacinamide), Vit B5 (Panthenol), and Flaxseed Oil are included for their soothing and irritation-reducing properties, which is beneficial given the presence of multiple active ingredients. This combination should provide good stability, preservation, and help minimize potential irritation.
Related Products Mentioned
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Allantoin
Light Cream Maker™
Disodium EDTA
Satin Cream Maker™
Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse™
Trans-White™
Wrinkle-Fill™ (Acetyl-Tyrosine)
Beige Iron Oxides EasyMix™
DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid
Para-Preserve (eq. Phenonip P4)
LipidSoft™ Moist (Triethylhexanoin)
MOIST24
Grape Seed Extract (Proanthocyanidins)
Rosa Hybrid Cell Extract (HybridCell™)
Flaxseed Oil (High Omega, Cold-Pressed)