Sunscreen Cream Formula Adjustment and Mixing Guide
Question
I am developing a sunscreen cream using the following ingredients and percentages:
- Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse: 10%
- OMC: 7.5%
- DHHB: 2.5%
- LipidSoft: 10%
- Cyclomethicone: 28%
- Warp Cream Maker: 4%
- Zinc PCA: 1%
- Water: 40%
- Preservative: Recommended usage rate
Could you please confirm if my mixing steps are correct? Also, where should Zinc PCA be added in the process? Is heat necessary for this formulation?
Answer
Sunscreen Formula and Mixing Guide
Adjusted Formula
The staff recommended the following adjusted percentages for better stability:
- Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse: 10%
- OMC: 7.5%
- DHHB: 2.5%
- LipidSoft: 10%
- Cyclomethicone: 28% (Adjusted from 20%)
- Warp Cream Maker: 4%
- Zinc PCA: 1%
- Water: 40% (Adjusted from 48%)
- Preservative: Add at the recommended usage rate for your chosen preservative.
Total: 100% + Preservative
Mixing Steps
The staff confirmed the mixing steps you outlined are correct, with some important details:
- Part A (Oil Phase): Mix OMC, DHHB, and LipidSoft. Heat this mixture to 60-80°C and stir until it becomes a clear liquid. Set aside as Part A.
- Part B (Zinc Oxide Dispersion): Mix Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse with Cyclomethicone. Stir thoroughly to ensure the Zinc Oxide is completely dispersed in the Cyclomethicone. Set aside as Part B.
- Combine Part B with Warp Cream Maker. Apply heat and stir continuously until the mixture is well combined.
- While stirring the mixture from step 3, gradually add Part A (the heated oil phase) and continue stirring until everything is well combined and there are no remaining particles or sediment.
- Water Phase: Prepare your water phase by dissolving water-soluble ingredients, including Zinc PCA, in the water.
- Slowly add the water phase (from step 5) to the main mixture (from step 4) little by little, while stirring continuously. Do not add all the water at once, as this will make cream formation take much longer. Continue stirring until all the water is incorporated and a cream texture is formed.
- Finally, add your chosen preservative and mix until fully incorporated.
Adding Zinc PCA
Zinc PCA is a water-soluble ingredient. As the staff advised, you should dissolve the Zinc PCA in the water phase (along with any other water-soluble ingredients) before you begin slowly adding the water phase to the oil/silicone mixture in the final step (Step 5 in the mixing instructions above).
Necessity of Heat
Yes, heat is necessary for this formula and mixing method. The staff explained that heat is needed to help the oil-soluble ingredients (OMC, DHHB, LipidSoft) dissolve properly and combine with the other phases. Heat also helps the Warp Cream Maker integrate correctly into the mixture. Without using heat as described, the ingredients will not dissolve and combine effectively, which will result in an unstable formula.
If you are unable to use heat, the staff suggested considering an alternative product like SPF Protect Ultra, which is pre-processed and can be used without heating.
Related Products Mentioned
Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse™
Zinc PCA
Warp Cream Maker™ (e.q. Nikkomulese wo)
SPF Protect Ultra™ II