Sunscreen Cream Stability, Oiliness, and Body Formulation Adjustment

Question

I had issues with my cream + sunscreen formula separating and feeling very oily. The original formula included:

Water (remaining percentage)
Allantoin (0.2%)
Vitamin B3 (2%)
Vitamin B6 (2%)
SPF Protect Ultra (20%)
Light Cream Maker (2%)
Fractionated Coconut Oil (3%)
MSH White (0.5%)
Ethoxydiglycol (5%)
Coenzyme Q10 Extra (1%)
Phenoxyethanol (1%)
Fragrance (1%)
Pomegranate Extract
Tomato Extract
Roselle Extract

Staff reviewed the formula and recommended removing Vitamin B6, Fractionated Coconut Oil, MSH White, and Ethoxydiglycol to improve stability and reduce oiliness. They suggested a base formula using the remaining ingredients:

Water (remaining percentage)
Allantoin (0.2%)
Vitamin B3 (2%)
SPF Protect Ultra (20%)
Light Cream Maker (2%)
Coenzyme Q10 Extra (1%)
Phenoxyethanol (1%)
Fragrance (1%)

My follow-up questions are:

Can this recommended base formula be used to make a body sunscreen?
Can I change the cream maker to Luxury Cream Maker, Pro Polymer, or Pro Polymer Silk?
Can I add Dimethicone (Light, Low-Odor) or Cyclomethicone to the formula for slip or water resistance?
Can I add the other extracts (Pomegranate, Tomato, Roselle) back into the formula?

I understand that the total oil phase (sunscreen, oils, silicones, emulsifier) should ideally be kept below 25% for stability, especially with temperature changes. How can I achieve a stable formula for a body sunscreen with these adjustments?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Regarding your cream + sunscreen formula that separated and felt oily, the issue likely stems from the combination and percentages of the ingredients used.

The staff reviewed your formula and provided specific feedback to address the separation and oiliness:

Remove Vitamin B6 (2%): The staff indicated this can soften the formula texture, potentially contributing to instability.
Remove Fractionated Coconut Oil (3%): This was recommended to reduce the oiliness of the formula.
Remove MSH White (0.5%) and Ethoxydiglycol (5%): The staff advised removing MSH White because it requires Ethoxydiglycol to dissolve, and Ethoxydiglycol should not be used in formulas containing sunscreen. Using Ethoxydiglycol with sunscreen might enhance the penetration of sunscreen into the skin, which is undesirable and potentially harmful.

Based on the staff's feedback, the core ingredients that should form a stable base formula are:

Water (remaining percentage)
Allantoin (0.2%)
Vitamin B3 (2%)
SPF Protect Ultra (20%)
Light Cream Maker (2%)
Coenzyme Q10 Extra (1%)
Phenoxyethanol (1%)
Fragrance (1%)

The staff mentioned that they could only guarantee the stability of the formula with the ingredients they reviewed and could not assure that adding your other extracts (Pomegranate, Tomato, Roselle) would not cause issues like separation or greasiness.

Regarding your follow-up question about making a body sunscreen using the staff's recommended base formula:

You can indeed switch the cream maker to Luxury Cream Maker or other types like Pro Polymer or Pro Polymer Silk.
Adding Dimethicone (Light, Low-Odor) is suitable for making the cream feel smoother and can also help with water resistance. The staff noted that Cyclomethicone would provide more slip if that is the primary goal, but Dimethicone is better if water resistance is also desired.
A crucial point highlighted by the staff is to keep the total oil phase (including sunscreen, oils, silicones, emulsifier) below 25% of the total formula to maintain stability and prevent separation, especially with temperature changes.

To achieve a stable formula, it is recommended to start with the staff's suggested base ingredients and ensure the total oil phase is within the recommended limit. When adding other extracts, do so cautiously and test the stability of the final product.